India’s heritage lives on in exquisite jewels—carved jade, lustrous pearls and a delightful meenakari rendition of a lost Mughal treasure. Robb Report India spoke to acclaimed jewellers who have acquired, restored, and preserved these rare pieces, each a testament to masterful craftsmanship.
SPINEL NECKLACE RESTORED BY: GEM & JEWELLERY PALACE
Lustrous Burmese spinels, once considered symbols of imperial power in Mughal India, form the five rows of this museum-worthy piece. The five largest spinels, acquired painstakingly over several decades, are engraved with the names of emperors Alamgir, Akbar, and Jahangir. A half-finished version of the necklace was acquired from a New York-based collector; and the jeweller spent four additional years sourcing matching spinels to complete this certified jewel.
GAMKHARU RESTORED BY: AMRAPALI
This bold cuff is Assam’s most iconic and strikingly gender-fluid ornament traditionally worn during festivals and sacred rituals. Crafted in gold, it is adorned with rubies and intricate enamelled floral patterns in deep blue and emerald green. This piece has undergone a conservation-led restoration, including reinforcing the structural integrity of the hinge, without altering the original craftsmanship. Today, the Gamkharu is part of the permanent collection at the Amrapali Museum in Jaipur.
PRANCING HORSE EARRINGS RESTORED BY: SUNITA SHEKHAWAT
Part of the remarkable collection at Jaipur’s Museum of Meenakari Heritage, these earrings are a recreation of the original: an enamelled gold, ruby and diamond pendant commissioned—but never received—by the 17th-century Mughal emperor Jahangir. After securing permission from the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore, USA, Shekhawat collaborated with five artisans over six months to recreate the horse as a pair of earrings, using ronde-bosse, a 14th-century French technique of 3D-enamel coating.
JADAU PLAIT RESTORED BY: BIRDHICHAND GHANSHYAMDAS JEWELLERS
Originally worn by creative director Yash Agarwal’s grandmother, this traditional hair ornament is a family heirloom, passed down through generations and worn on special occasions. Crafted in 18K gold, it is set with emeralds, rubies, pearls, and diamond polki. The piece has been meticulously restored by skilled artisans using traditional techniques, preserving the integrity of its original design. The gemstones have been carefully reset, the gold polished, and the intricate detailing retained.
JADE & PEARL NECKLACE RESTORED BY: GOLECHA JEWELLERS
This century-old necklace and family heirloom is made using jade pendants overlaid with crystal. The circlet is crafted from restrung Basra pearls. Each pendant features the triumvirate of male and female gods from the Indian pantheon: Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh hand-painted on the front, while Lakshmi, Saraswati, and Parvati appear on the back.
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