Sir Paul Smith is lying down inside a car, legs dangling out, feet covered in his signature striped socks, minutes after the unveiling of the Mini Cooper Paul Smith Edition, much to the delight of the international media present.
The English designer emerges from the Mini and we head to a quiet corner of the Japan Mobility Show 2025, in Tokyo.
In a career spanning decade, Smith has been part of several collaborative projects. He has worked with the likes of British singer David Bowie, Swiss stationery brand Caran d’Ache, Triumph Motorcycles and, more recently, Mini, his fifth collaboration with the brand since 1998. “These collaborations have emerged through personal interest and not business strategy. I am a fashion designer who loves cars and bikes,” he says, sharing that he has 27 bikes and a Mini parked in his garage.
About how he decides on which collaborations to take on, he says, “I’ve learnt to say ‘no’ to things that don’t resonate with me. The danger is in becoming too formulaic in any domain. Fashion, writing, car design, anything... If you have too much of a formula, you will eventually become stale. You have to move forward, come up with new ideas, left and right of the obvious.”
He shares that his love for India began in the 1980s when he began visiting the country for work. “I was doing these crazy day trips and everyone in London would ask if I was going to get takeaway meals,” jokes Smith.
Smith talks about India being one of the world capitals of craftsmanship. “For over 40 years, I’ve been working with Indian craftsmen for my embroidered shirts, hand-stitched elements, and more. I’ve worked with many factories for hand embroidery,” he says, adding, “Of course, also for the intense colours in places like Jaipur and Udaipur, which is seen in my work, too.”
At a time when automation seems to be the norm, Smith highlights that it’s more important now than ever to promote craftsmanship. “From a sartorial point of view, there is a joy and luxury in handmade things. When I see a finished sleeve being joined to the body of a hand-finished suit— that is pure joy,” he says, adding that luxury lies in imperfections.
“When something is handmade, you will see these little dimples, wrinkles (showing me his bespoke jacket sleeve) that lend character. The untrained eye, or some of my younger customers might not like this sleeve, as they think something’s wrong. But someone with a trained eye will see the luxury in this.”
Pulling out a notebook and pen in response to my question about how he keeps up with social media trends, he says, “I’m old school and make my notes on paper.”
Smith walks me towards the Mini, pointing out elements from his personal life that he has woven into the design. The side mirrors, radiator grille, wheel hub covers, and the roof have Nottingham Green paintwork: the colour serving as a nod to his home city.
About the graphics of a handdrawn rabbit on the floor mat, he says, “The rabbit is my lucky charm. Before every fashion show of mine, my wife always gave me a rabbit in some form for good luck. Today, there are hundreds of collected rabbits in my office.”
Before I lose Smith to dozens of doting fans, I pose him with a signature Robb Report India question: “What does luxury mean to you?” “Luxury for me is not about the price tag, nor is it about gold and flash. It’s as simple as a walk on an empty beach or having silence around you,” he signs off.
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