In Goa’s always-buzzing restaurant scene, new places launch with considerable regularity, while some disappear quietly, some ride the wave of an initial buzz before folding quietly. Only a handful truly make a mark.
It’s always a special treat to visit a restaurant with a Goan chef at the helm. Rahul 'Picu' Gomes Pereira is a beloved chef in Goa, known for his work as executive Chef and partner at Pass Code Hospitality (Jamun, Ping’s, Saz, and Raki in Goa). The newest restaurant from that stable is Mister Merchant's, which set up shop in Pune and has now made its way to the Goan shores. Here, Chef Gomes Pereira dishes out his contemporary take on Mediterranean food.
The restaurant officially opens in mid-August. Mister Merchant's sits in the newly opened members-only club, Solene, in a quieter (for now) part of Moira. It occupies what would’ve been the spacious hall, balcony, and front yard of an old, 100-year-old home. Solene is a collaboration between Isprava Group and Pass Code Hospitality.
The Space
If you’ve been to Jamun in Goa, you will find some similarities here: a love for pretty crockery, vintage knick-knacks hiding in corners, and heavy tomes. The vibe is warm, with low lights, soothing tones, and comfortable upholstery. Indoors make use of the Goan love for high, false wooden ceilings. A low-hanging chandelier spotlights the bar. There’s a sense of quiet luxury to the place that doesn’t feel stifling or formal.
The Food
Mister Merchant's owes its name to a fictitious character who travelled the Silk Route, possibly traded in spices, and ate well. At the heart of the food at Mister Merchant’s is this desire to feed a customer well and be generous with spices.
“My last two holidays were to the Middle East, and I have copious notes from those trips,” says Picu. “I was already doing European at the club (Solene’s dining area is for members only), and so, I thought of doing my take on Mediterranean food here.”
It gives him the chance to play with some of the dishes and tweak them. Like the Moira Ganoush, which takes the simple aubergine and ramps up the flavour and crunch with the subtle sweetness of the legendary Moira bananas. The Moira Ganoush is part of our expansive Merchant thaal, which is an assortment of mezze and sides. Gunpowder Hummus is a fiery marriage of podi spices with hummus. Atom is a chilli-fuelled labneh that offers spice but not fire. Levantine Shatta uses hummus as the base for a spicy fava bean-coriander-chilli and peanut chutney. Ajika is a piquant Georgian dip with smoked bell peppers and jalapeno.
The mezze is good enough to be eaten on its own, but works equally well with a thin, crispy onion lavash, or if going for something more meat-heavy, a lightly spiced Beef Adana. As chops go, the Za’tar Lamb Chops are perfectly tender, with the spice blend bringing heat and some char. A Cucumber and Walnut Salad from the Short Eats section provides some freshness.
Mister Merchant's offers a compact menu, with dishes that encourage sharing. Expect liberal drizzles of olive oil over everything. In the Long Eats, the standout dish is the Egyptian Koshyari. Picu regales us with a story of its origins. Years back, when doing an event in Cairo, his nights post his shift would be spent with friends, cruising along the Nile, drinking duty-free wine or beer, and eating this typical Egyptian dish—a mix of rice, macaroni, chickpeas, lentils, and sauce. “It sounds weird, but once you taste it, you will be sold. I’ve been wanting to add this to a menu for ages and finally got to do it,” he says.
Much like the other guests, we find ourselves digging into spoonfuls of the Koshyari, which is a saucy khichdi of rice and macaroni. To satisfy our Goan cravings, Picu brings out a Fish Mashwi, a whole red snapper liberally doused with olive oil, garlic, and lemon, proving that good fish can taste beautiful with the simplest of ingredients.
Dessert keeps things simple and familiar: a luscious Turkish Coffee Crème Brulee and an impossibly creamy Basque Cheesecake. With dessert comes a childhood treat, toffee candy, and a chance to practice our handwriting—we are given postcards picturing Goan scenes and asked to send a note to a loved one (which will then be posted across India).
The Drinks
The cocktails at Mister Merchant's aren’t over the top, preferring simplicity over complicated pairings. The philosophy behind the drinks at Mister Merchant’s is to be low-waste. This comes to delicious fruition in the Curry Leaf to Agave, a spirit-forward drink that is herbaceous and spiced, like a take on picante. It is accompanied by a brittle made with the ingredients that went into the glass—curry leaf, ginger, lime, and jaggery to add the desired sweetness to the drink.
Progressive Paloma, an off-the-menu drink that pairs grapefruit and lime, is heavy on the citrus, leading to a lingering bitter finish. In the zero ABV cocktails, the Tea To Plant Milk is like a dessert drink — sweet, milky, and creamy. It demands slow sips. Dates to Apple highlights the fruit, with the date offering sweetness in the fizzy drink.
RR Verdict
It's guaranteed to be a good meal when Chef Picu is in the kitchen; an even better one when he is around to tell you stories of the food. Mister Merchant's is no exception, offering comforting Mediterranean fare, quality produce, and a stellar mezze. Go there for the Koshari, linger back with a drink, and remember to get a loved one’s address for the postcard.
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