I have been here before, the signature scent greeted me at the door, the impeccable hospitality felt like a familiar hug — it’s The Oberoi. But today, the air carried something new, call it a sense of occasion, perhaps. The landmark property is celebrating its 60th anniversary, and the celebrations begin at Dhilli, ideal for both intimate dinners and grand occasions.
The restaurant unveils a refreshed menu, one that pays homage to the past while artfully reinterpreting signature favourites for today’s palate. At the centre of it all is Chef Vineet Bhatia. Flown in from the US for this occasion, he takes us through a tasting menu that is both nostalgic and boldly inventive.
The Food
The first offering was Chatak Chena Chaat, an interesting take on the street classic. Served as a yogurt parfait, it features velvety dahi bhalla ice cream, topped with boondi, sev, and a yogurt pomegranate bark, every bite both refreshing and indulgent, setting the tone for what is to follow.
The Kandhar Kofta challenges expectations, tender koftas made of jackfruit, plated on a rich Roghan Josh jus, complemented by saffron cream, Kashmiri walnut soil, and black garlic. Each bite new yet familiar, it comes alive with bites of warm Gilafi Naan, fresh out of the tandoor with its surface speckled with red chilli.
The next one is a celebration of kebabs, the Kandahari Roulade, Keema Roomali Pinwheel Kebabs, served alongside a silky korma sauce and garnished with pickled button onions that gives the dish a punchy bite.
To reset the palate before the mains, a zesty lemon sorbet arrives, optionally topped with sparkling wine, a delightful interlude.
The main course is an Italian indulgence with a nostalgic twist. A perfectly charred paneer steak, peppered with kasuri methi ash and roasted cumin oil, resting on a dreamy makhani risotto.
Every good meal deserves a memorable closing, and this one surely delivers. A divine fusion of two beloved classics — Gulab Jamun and Tiramisu. Here, baby jamuns are soaked in coffee, rounded off with a cloud of cappuccino-style foam reminiscent of Daulat ki Chaat, and cocoa shards.
The Drinks
For those leaning towards spirited indulgence, signature cocktails like the smoky Purani Dilli (bourbon-based) and the spiced Baoli Fizz (vodka-based) await. I choose to go alcohol-free with the Dhilli Nimbu Pani, a refreshingly earthy mix of cumin, fennel, and garlic with soda water, a classic cooler.
The Space
Dhilli exudes the polish one expects from The Oberoi. Thoughtfully laid-out tables, warm lighting, and the signature spider web chairs add texture to the space. The live kitchen with its tandoor counter commands attention – flames flickering and chefs working in seamless synchrony.
The tasting menu offers both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. While I choose to indulge in the vegetarian selection, the non-vegetarian menu is equally appetising. It begins with prawn dumplings that arrive with a tamarind glaze, followed by the chef’s signature Palm’s fried chicken and shahi seekh kebabs. For mains, the highlight is a perfectly pan-seared sea bass, paired with a silky mango-coconut sauce.
RR Verdict
Whether you’re a Dhilli loyalist or a first-time visitor, this reimagined menu calls for a try. Especially if you’re a Delhiite at heart. The menu is a celebration of culinary nostalgia, rooted in Delhi's rich food heritage.
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