Embers and sparks leap up from the grill as a team of chefs adjusts the heat of the custom-made grill. The chef in charge, Saurabh Udinia, is unperturbed, having learned to tame the fire during the course of conceptualising his menu.
Hom (derived from the Sanskrit word homa, or ‘holy fire’) is Bandra's newest eatery that marries a serious concept—a theatrical wood-fired grill—with serious flavours and nuanced cocktails. Founder Pratik Gaba made his name in the nightlife space, but this is his first restaurant. He's brought Udinia back to Mumbai (when he left, he was at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra) for a menu that's flavour-forward and surprisingly light. Years ago, (the now shuttered) Arth, by Amninder Sadhu, opened across the road – championing wood fire cooking, and now Hom takes that baton and refines it further.
The Space
The seven-seater theatre is sure to be reserved by serious foodies keen to see how their vegetables are charred, fish steamed, and meat grilled. The seats face the open kitchen, though the inside also features a small bar and an elevator that will soon descend to a basement bar. Interiors, by Studio 6158, are fun and bring to mind the 60s, but reinterpreted and updated. Think shiny tiles, a rippling mirrored ceiling, and burl wood veneers. It’s got enough detail to be ready for its Instagram close-up without being overwhelming.
The Food
Those sitting at the counter can avail of the set theatre menu, which is a multi-course meal that includes morels and asparagus for vegetarians and king prawns and pork on toast for meat-eaters. Gaba, the owner, says, “I wanted to create something that would be true to Bandra, which would be ingredient-oriented. Not only do you come eat food and leave, but you stay back for the cocktails and chill as well.”
There are many highlights on the menu, which is simply divided into Snacks, Plates, Kulchas and Dessert. A meal traverses the country, with dishes that showcase regional flavours whether it be chaat, tandoor-style kebabs nihari or moilee. Udinia recommends guests share dishes and try multiple options. Each order is self-contained with no need for rice or breads on the side. With that in mind, we were blown away by the simple but acidic seabass crudo, elevated with crunchy black rice and umami forward tomato water. Similarly earthy morels are paired with peppery nihari for a great bite as is a crisp but airy punugulu, stuffed with prawn rechado and injected with balsamic vinegar just before serving. Kulchas, stuffed with cheeses ranging from mature cheddar to gruyere, are topped with everything from saag paneer to served alongside Kerala mud crab.
Regulars might drop in for the laal maas khichdi, a fiery single bowl that’s hearty, and meaty, since the rice is made with stock or the crispy mountain potatoes, served as a pave in a pool of yogurt. Or maybe the chaat – aerated, crunchy, light and sweet – is what you’ll end up craving. Personally, I’d go back for the light aubergine with date and kachampuli mash and scallops, blackened slightly on the grill before being topped with crab cooked in lime kuzambhu.
Desserts include a maple and butter pie, reminiscent of Indian Accent’s doda burfi tart (Udinia spent time in their New Delhi kitchen) and a chocolate option, which is sure to satisfy those looking to go with something sweet and cocao-forward.
The Drinks
The cocktails are definitely worth lingering over, with the drinks put together by Pankaj Balachandran’s Countertop bar consultancy. Pair the meal with the well-carbonated and subtle Mango Bell, a highball-style drink that features both tequila and mezcal with mango, yellow bell peppers, coconut, and citrus. For those that want something stronger, the bar’s take on the Negroni is made with pineapple rum, strawberry Campari, and vermouth, all of which is then fat-washed with coconut oil. The drink is named Cuban Missile Swizzle and is one of many inventive cocktails. If you’re looking for the classics, those are done well too, as our martini and Americano can attest.
RR Verdict
The restaurant, which is only open for dinner, is a welcome new addition to the city’s culinary landscape. The grill, which is integral to every dish being served, is more than just a showpiece, and it's sure to have regulars asking for twists on the menu’s offerings. With great cocktails and a relaxed atmosphere, it’s the kind of no-fuss eatery that Bandra loves.
