Gastronomy

Meet Chef Krung Thong Who Hand-Carries His Thai Roots and Serves Them on Your Plate in Delhi

If you’re looking for Thai cuisine meant for a gourmand, head to The Qube at The Leela Palace, New Delhi.

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Image courtesy: (From left): The Qube, Tanya Malik

When it is Thai food you're after, it’s no usual craving. Whether it is the aroma of jasmine rice or Thai curry, you know you'll go the distance to satiate it. For true Thai cuisine lovers, even the most indulgent dining rooms can fall short. So, when your palate starts daydreaming about a flight to Thailand, head to The Qube at The Leela Palace, New Delhi.

Recognising the rising love for Thai cuisine among diners, The Qube has introduced an immersive Thai menu curated by Chef Krung Thong, with dishes rooted in his homeland’s soil, and brought to life using traditional techniques passed down through generations. Two communal tables with high chairs are set up by the live kitchen, where guests savour the cuisine while witnessing the magic unfold.

The Secret Lies in Authenticity

For over a decade, Chef Thong has been quietly elevating Thai cuisine, creating dishes that resonate with the refined palate. As each course arrives, one after another, perfectly timed, deeply satisfying, I ask the inevitable question: what is the secret?

Be it the jasmine rice tossed with Thai herbs and chilli or the perfectly cooked pad Thai blending tamarind, tofu, and bean sprouts, every rendition here is a mirror of dishes I have experienced in Thailand.

“We have a lot of stuff that’s hand-carried from Thailand,” Chef Thong explains in conversation with Robb Report India. “We steam our rice inside a custom bamboo box, which gives it that nice aroma, and I carry it from home. Back here in India, we know we won’t get a lot of these things. So yes, the rice, some ingredients, tools, and of course, inspiration, that’s what I carry back here, and guess that’s the secret.”

Sea Bass
Sea BassImage courtesy: The Qube

I deep dive into sourcing. Chef Thong opens up about the ingredients he reveres. From sourcing chilli and chilli paste directly from Thailand to selectively incorporating local produce, everything is intentional. “We have the Chilean sea bass, which is not native to Thailand but a phenomenal fish. It is sourced from our coastal supply in Cochin, the rock lobsters too. So it is about sourcing sustainably, using the best produce available in India, that adds to the authenticity.”

Techniques Rooted in Simplicity 

But even the premium ingredients aren’t enough without the right technique, and for Chef Thong, that technique is rooted in simplicity. “I think the biggest technique of Thai food is the balancing of flavours—of sourness, sweetness, and saltiness. Thai food has a lot of acidity from lemons, pastes, fermentation, and balancing that is in the hands of the chef. Thai food is rooted in tradition. The recipes, the mix of spices, and the herbs have to be done the right way. If some dressings need to be hand-pounded, they will be. That is the technique and we always want to do it the right way so the dish gets all the flavours.”

On the subject of evolving trends in Thai cuisine, Chef Thong acknowledges, “Thai food was always appetising because the flavours are bold. But now I think people have gone beyond just Thai curry. Traditionally, Thai food meant Thai curry, right? Gourmands want more now. That’s why if you see the menu, our curries are just a functional part. We understand they’re nostalgic, but we offer a far more defined and expansive menu. We even have a jackfruit curry—it’s not traditional, but it’s now part of our offering.”

Speaking with Chef Thong offers a broader reminder that it is never just about how food looks or is served. The best dishes linger in our memory because of the fundamentals, which include the provenance of ingredients, the intention behind the preparation, and the soul the chef pours into it.