La Mamounia, Marrakesh
Much has been written about La Mamounia—so much so that it now holds an almost cult-like status. The glamour and glitz, the constellation of celebrities who have stayed (and continue to stay) here, and the grand renovation in 2023 to mark its centenary, have all added to its iconic aura. Writing about La Mamounia can feel like ticking off a luxury checklist: 19 acres of lush gardens filled with the scent of orange blossom, lined with olive trees, Aleppo pines, palms, cacti, and citrus groves; a majestic Hammam, a Romanesque indoor pool and spa; 600-thread count bed linens; generously sized toiletries; and intricate zellige tile work everywhere you look.
What is often under-reported, however, is the food and beverage—signature dining by one of the most acclaimed chefs in the world, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and patisserie by the legendary Pierre Hermé. Le Bar Majorelle, overlooking the vast gardens, serves some of the best cocktails in Marrakesh. The hotel boasts four bars, two tea rooms, a stellar wine cellar with over 2,000 bottles of classic and rare wines, and three restaurants offering Italian, Asian, and Moroccan cuisines. The Moroccan restaurant, Le Marocain, is particularly special—the magnificent lamb tangia, slow-cooked overnight in a terracotta pot and ceremoniously opened at the table, is a standout.
Come September, the hotel embarks on a new chapter with its Italian restaurant, now under the signature of renowned chef Simone Zanoni from Michelin-starred Le George in Paris.
Riad Fès, Fès
To reach Riad Fès, a Relais & Châteaux property, you must first navigate the famous narrow alleys of the Medina—though thankfully, not with your luggage in tow. Behind a pair of grand carved wooden doors lies this exquisite 30-room sanctuary, comprising several interconnected riads (traditional Moroccan house or palace) dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Meticulously restored 25 years ago, it now dazzles with Moorish-Andalusian elegance and serene courtyards. Tucked within the maze of Fès’ 9,600 alleyways—surrounded by copperware sellers, tanneries, potters, Berber rugs, and fabulous street food—the property is a peaceful counterpoint to the medina’s bustle. Its interiors are a masterclass in Fassi design: marble fountains, original Zellige tiles, sculptural chandeliers, and leafy gardens.
The Royale Suite is the crown jewel. Historically the main salon where nobles received their guests, today the suite boasts carved cedar ceilings, lavish brocade upholstery, colourful tiles, and furniture by Piero Lissoni. With two bedrooms, a living room, and windows overlooking the main fountain, it offers a rare sense of scale in Fès.
Dar Rhizlane, Marrakesh
A cross between a grand hotel and a boutique riad, Dar Rhizlane is an elegant hideaway in the Hivernage district—an upmarket, tree-lined neighbourhood just minutes from the medina. It exudes charm and intimacy with lush gardens, bubbling fountains, a serene pool, and a gorgeous spa. I came for lunch, toured the rooms, and ended up staying. The rooms—all suites—either overlook gardens or tranquil courtyards. There’s a well-equipped fitness centre, a fine restaurant offering international and Moroccan cuisine, and a lively outdoor bar. This is where I first discovered the famous chicken tagine with young meslela olives and preserved lemon—a revelation. With just 20 suites, it fills up quickly, so advance bookings are highly recommended.
Fairmont Tazi Palace, Tangier
Perched on a hill in one of Tangier’s most prestigious residential neighbourhoods, Fairmont Tazi Palace feels like a modern-day royal residence. The original palace, commissioned in 1926, was designed to reflect the grandeur of Tangier’s golden era—a cosmopolitan time when the city attracted diplomats, spies, artists, and adventurers from around the world. Transformed into a Fairmont hotel in 2022, the property now offers 133 luxurious rooms, suites, and penthouses (ranging from 44 to 330 square metre), all with sweeping views of the city and coastline. The interiors are a rich tapestry of Moroccan and Andalusian craftsmanship—vibrant mosaics, moucharabieh, and hand-carved woodwork.
Tangier itself still retains its magnetic pull. A summer escape for the Moroccan elite and a stopover for the international jet set, it continues to hum with culture, history, and Mediterranean charm.
Riad Due, Marrakesh
Tucked inside the vibrant heart of Marrakesh’s Medina, Riad Due is a hidden gem. Step inside, and the noise of the souks fades into a sanctuary of rose-scented air, lush plants, and peaceful courtyards. The property is a three-story riad in classic Moorish style, tastefully updated by French designer Yann Dobry. The Italian touch comes from Elena Masera, the long-time manager who understands exactly what international travellers want after having spent 23 years in Morocco. There are just four suites, each uniquely designed with a blend of Italian elegance and Moroccan tradition. The ground floor houses a tranquil swimming pool and a stunning open kitchen, where Chef Atika prepares daily meals and conducts intimate cookery classes. Whether you’re after a light vegetarian dish, a flaky pastilla, or a tailored meal to suit your dietary preferences, this is the place. Her Artichoke tagine, Amlou warm goat’s cheese salad, and taktuka are the vegetarian standouts.
The first floor hosts a colourful library, while the rooftop terrace—filled with sun loungers and sculptural cacti—offers one of the best 360-degree views in the city. It’s a little oasis, just moments from the hustle and swirl of the souks.
Kasbah Tamadot, Atlas Mountains
Richard Branson’s stunning retreat in the Atlas Mountains, Kasbah Tamadot is more a private home than hotel crafted like a traditional mud terracotta kasbah with 42 rooms, suites, and Berber tents. Set high in a valley with sweeping views of Mount Toubkal, it blends Moroccan charm with world-class luxury: an infinity pool, serene spa and beautifully restored interiors filled with handwoven textiles.
Reopened in 2024 after a major restoration following the 2023 earthquake, it is now even more luxurious and features secret staircases, tranquil courtyards, and petal-strewn pools. The Eve Branson Foundation ensures the hotel gives back—employing all-local staff, supporting women’s crafts, and funding long-term community recovery.
A favourite escape for Branson himself, it’s a place of peace, purpose, and unforgettable beauty.
Royal Mansour, Marrakech & Casablanca
Owned by the King of Morocco, Royal Mansour is the very embodiment of palace chic. An icon of luxury hospitality, the hotel spares no detail—from the finest local craftsmanship to world-renowned culinary talent. At the helm is Hélène Darroze, voted the World’s Best Female Chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2015, who serves as Chef Consultant for La Grande Brasserie and La Grande Table Marocaine.
More than a hotel, Royal Mansour is a one-of-a-kind revival of a traditional medina, reimagined with understated grandeur. Winding terracotta alleys, peaceful squares, and lush gardens form a six-hectare private estate nestled against the ancient ramparts of the old city. Hidden behind studded wooden doors lie 53 exceptional private riads, each with its own patio, Zellige-tiled pool, fountain, and discreet private butler service. Dining is a journey in itself. The opulent La Grande Table Marocaine sets the benchmark for refined Moroccan cuisine. The chic French Brasserie brings elegant all-day dining with Darroze’s signature finesse, while Sesamo, an offbeat Italian gem, is helmed by Massimiliano Alajmo, the youngest chef ever awarded three Michelin stars.
The winner for me? The Bastien Gonzalez Pedi:Mani:Cure Studio. My choice of hotel, wherever I am in the world, is often determined by whether there’s a Bastien studio on-site or nearby. These treatments are beyond exceptional—fusing medical precision with meticulous, high-gloss buffing techniques performed by therapists trained in podiatry. It’s not just about beauty; it’s restorative, therapeutic, and frankly, unrivalled.
