I walk into the Grand Pacific Hotel’s lobby in Suva, and for a minute, I think I am in a museum. To my right, a display cupboard relates stories from the past—of kings, queens, and dignitaries who once graced this property. My eyes sweep over a wall mounted with snapshots of prominent people and the British royal family, who were its most illustrious guests.
But it’s not just the hotel’s long history that catches my attention. Just outside, the infinity pool and the gleaming South Pacific Ocean stretch right in front of me, and in just an hour, I am gazing at a magical sunset with Suva’s sky painted in fiery shades of orange.
Perched along Suva Harbour, with sweeping views of the ocean and surrounding mountains, this heritage hotel with an all-white façade dates back more than a century. Fiji’s capital, Suva, is not a typical stop for those coming to the country for a beach holiday, but the city, as well as the hotel, is the perfect plug into a country that is also steeped in history, culture, and colonial charm.
A city landmark, this storied hotel , popularly known as G.P.H., is so prominent that it even graces the country’s $10 (INR 864) note. Its most famous guest was Queen Elizabeth II, who first stayed here in 1953 and revisited a couple more times. Her stay has been commemorated with a suite named after her. I walked in thinking it would face the sea, but instead it looks out on Albert Park and has a massive grand balcony from where she famously waved to the waiting crowds. More recently, in 2018, Prince Harry and Meghan Markle recreated that iconic balcony wave during their stay. Vintage furnishings, photos, and memorabilia of the queen’s visits keep alive the royal flavour.
The hotel has seen some ups and downs. It changed ownership and closed in 1992 for a while before it was revamped and reopened in 2014 in time to mark its centenary. The InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG) took over in 2020.
Its 113 rooms and suites are spread over the Heritage building, Harbour, and Kingsford Smith Wings. The 10 heritage rooms and suites are, of course, the crown jewels, with each exclusively designed and given heritage touches. They are located in the main colonial building that also includes a few restaurants, the lobby, and the Royal Victoria Lounge, giving guests here access to this exclusive sea-facing lounge.
The rooms in the Harbour and Kingsford Smith Wings are more contemporary in their look and feel. I check into the Premium room, which is quite spacious and comes with a double bed and a small balcony with wrought iron chairs, overlooking the harbour. To my delight, I can catch a glimpse of the gleaming blue waters that define Fiji from my bed as well.
On my first evening, I have a relaxed dinner overlooking the infinity pool and harbour at Levuka restaurant. The menu has comfort foods and local favourites on offer. Being so close to the sea, I choose fish ceviche, chilli garlic mussels, and a pizza. I love the seafood, it is fresh and bursting with flavours. The hotel’s signature cocktail, GPH G and Tea, took six months to create and is not your usual gin and tonic. Inspired by the hotel’s tradition of high teas, the cocktail is prepared with a mix of Earl Grey tea, dried Fijian Batiri orange, and Fiji’s local Blue Turtle Gin. It has quite a kick.
Formal dinners served at Prince Albert restaurant keep colonial traditions alive, blending refined service and seasonal ingredients into a modern South Pacific culinary journey. I am not that hungry, so I just opt for a simple burrata salad that’s done well.
Sitting here, I realise how this historic property has managed to merge its colonial past with the present seamlessly. Perhaps that is why this hotel and the city are the perfect start for those wanting a glimpse of all facets of this South Pacific country.
