This season's high jewellery showcases, hosted at some of the world's most exotic locales, offered their top clients some incredibly immersive experiences. Notwithstanding the luxury slump, high jewellery still remains a formidable category. Crafted with exceptional craftsmanship and encrusted with precious gemstones, the haute bijouterie segment has performed consistently well, according to reports. Cartier, Chaumet, Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton, and Chanel flew their cherished clients to sought-after destinations, from Stockholm to Marbella.
In terms of design aesthetic and metier, maisons derived inspiration from elements of nature—from the stars to the sea. Some of them also plunged into their hallowed archives mining symbolic references and insignia. A case in point being Chanel's Reach for the Stars collection which offers an homage to its founder Gabrielle’s three emblematic symbols: the comet, wings, and the lion.
Coco Chanel was known to nix the dated definition of luxury by strongly advocating black for evenings, a colour which was historically associated with servants and funerals. A rebellious visionary, she carved her own path. Take the precious golden rays of the setting sun, for instance, which illuminate the faces and caress tanned backs. This golden hour shaped her vision for Hollywood, too. She designed costumes for films in the early 1930s, notably for stars like Gloria Swanson in Tonight or Never (though she would soon reject Hollywood's ostentatious ways).
According to Chanel, this golden hour, projected in cinema-scope, is the vision of glamour that inspired the late Patrice Leguéreau (he was in charge of the house's fine and high jewellery collections since 2009), and the brand's Fine Jewellery Creation Studio. To quote them: “we wanted to create pieces of jewellery that are illuminated by the rays of the sunset and beyond, with those colours blazing across the horizon. Capturing that magical moment between day and night when high jewellery sparkles on the skin”.
Also worth mentioning is the Louis Vuitton Virtuosity Collection which reflects the house's core values. An invitation to embark on a transformative journey of discovery that celebrates exceptional craftsmanship and boundless imagination. Here's the low-down on this season's most desirable high jewellery drops which evoke envy and desirability in equal measure.
Chanel
Echoing one of Gabrielle’s mottos: “If you were born without wings, do nothing to prevent them from growing." The house's Fine Jewellery Creation Studio have reimagined this symbol for the first time. Crafted with astute attention to articulation points for ease, freedom and perfect positioning, often transformable, these openwork jewels are as supple as floating lace, ready to land delicately on the skin and complement the lines of the body. Like the Wings of Chanel necklace, whose diamond wings unfold to wrap around the neck, it is set with an exceptional 19.55-carat padparadscha sapphire whose colour balances pink and orange hues. The jewels extend their precious glow on a long detachable pendant that can also be worn as a bracelet. The ring in this set, featuring an 8.15 carat D-Flawless oval-cut diamond, depicts a wing that seems to barely touch the hand.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton showcased the house's new Louis Vuitton Virtuosity high jewellery collection embodied by house Ambassador, Ana de Armas. The campaign celebrates the collection's exquisite craftsmanship and innovative design. Shot by Sølve Sundsbø, the campaign captures the collection's bold metaphor for precision, creativity, and craftsmanship. Revealed through 110 one-of-a-kind pieces set across 12 themes, the collection features two distinct universes: The World of Mastery, and The World of Creativity.
The Apogée necklace is one of the masterpieces from the Virtuosity collection and can be worn in three ways. The necklace is in white gold and diamonds, with a 30.75 carats Brazilian pear-cut emerald. Set with a 10.56 carats LV Monogram star cut D Flawless diamond, it requires 2,081 hours of work. House codes in the necklace comprise a monogram motif, articulated handles akin to those on a trunk, V-shape diamonds, and a running rope element.
Tiffany & Co.
Showcasing the world’s finest diamonds and exceptional coloured gemstones, Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder captures the allure, motion and mystery of the ocean in exquisitely crafted masterpieces. Designed by Tiffany & Co. Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille, the house's newest high jewellery collection is a surreal journey from the figurative to the abstract inspired by Jean Schlumberger’s legendary aquatic designs. Sea of Wonder dives into the depths of the ocean, where the boundless variety of flora and fauna transforms into an ethereal world of wonder. With an evocative colour palette that mirrors the iridescent shimmer of underwater light and the bioluminescent dances of oceanic creatures, the collection reimagines the beauty of the deep through Verdeille’s creative lens.
Bvlgari
Rooted in the Greek word poly, meaning multitude, and chromia for colours, with a final nod to Rome, the Eternal City, the name Polychroma is an evocation that casts a vision of a world where colour becomes language, movement becomes expression, and every jewel is a portal to a new realm. An outstanding, daring ode to the values of colours, plurality, polymorphism and multidimensionality, unified in a universe of chromatic vibrancy and movement.
In a remarkable achievement, two of the five Gallery of Wonders—unparalleled creations that, with their breathtaking colours, remarkable cuts, and rarest gems, redefine high jewellery—made their debut cementing this occasion as a defining moment in our brand’s history. The Bvlgari Cosmic Vault Necklace, worn by Global Ambassador Anne Hathaway, is a stunning tribute to celestial beauty and architectural grandeur. At its centre, this necklace features a 123.35-carat sugarloaf sapphire that belongs in the exclusive pantheon of stones for its deep, intense colour. The Magnus Emerald Necklace, worn by Global Ambassador Priyanka Chopra Jonas, mounts one of the largest and most exquisite precious stones in the world, an emerald of 241.06 carats, the largest faceted stone ever set by Bvlgari.
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