From Couture to Global Prêt, The Evolution of Matsya Under Utkarsh Ahuja

Utkarsh Ahuja founded Matsya in 2014, building on a 25-yearold family background in textiles. Today, over a decade later, the brand continues to centre Indian hand-embroidery traditions, approaching each lehenga as constructed artwork. Now, Matsya has expanded beyond couture into ready-to-wear with the Global Prêt line, and into home with Matsya Living. Robb Report India catches up with Ahuja. Excerpts from the interview: 

Robb Report India(RR): What led you to start Matsya? 

Utkarsh Ahuja (UA): When we started in 2014, I explored collaborations with established couturiers, but it didn’t align with my larger vision. I didn’t want to build a designer-led label; I wanted to build a brand-led world rooted in couture and weddings, with a global outlook. 

From the beginning, we designed for a contemporary individual. For the first five or six years, we avoided red lehengas and traditional bridal colours, building a community aligned with our aesthetic. We didn’t compromise our vision for business. Our first red lehenga was introduced after 11 years in response to demand, and even then, we reinterpreted it in our own way.

RR: How do you balance evolving aesthetics with staying true to your vision? 

UA: Our underlying code is “modern royalty”. It’s not about literal raja-maharaja imagery, but about culture and responsibility. Historically, royalty commissioned great art and architecture; we try to build that ecosystem for our clients. 

Evolution is natural. Couture serves weddings, while Global Prêt designs what someone wears every day. The categories evolve, but the core remains intact.

RR: What does royalty mean to you? 

UA: Modern royalty is culture, responsibility, and material appreciation. First, understanding your roots before evolving them. Second, maintaining an ethical compass in how you build. Third, respecting material value. Luxury doesn’t need to be loud; it needs to be understood.

RR: What do Indian consumers misunderstand about luxury?

UA: It’s not misunderstanding; it’s lack of education. Earlier generations inspected fabric and embroidery closely. Today, consumption is faster. In menswear, buyers often know mill names and fabric blends. In womenswear, access to such textiles is limited. That’s the space we’re building.

RR: Tell us about the Global Prêt collection that Dia Mirza wore for Robb Report India. 

UA: With the Global Prêt line, we asked ourselves if we were designing someone’s wardrobe from scratch, where would we begin? For me, it started with a simple silk shirt. Today, fast fashion has shifted focus away from composition and finishing. We wanted to offer better value through craft rather than volume. Our silk shirts, for example, have buttons made in jewellery factories and dipped in gold or silver. These are details that endure.

RR: What’s next for Matsya?

UA: Our priority is expanding within India. Ahmedabad is next, followed by Mumbai. Once that ecosystem is established, going global is the next natural step.