Indian fashion is clearly having a moment, though it may not be in exactly the way we envisioned it to be. The classic dupatta has been doing the rounds of TikTok recently, only it’s been going by the name of a Scandinavian scarf, even being described as ‘very European effortlessly chic’.
On Instagram, a French influencer is seen twirling in a three-piece ensemble that closely resembles a wedding lehenga. Earlier this year, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent had models walk down the runway in metallic brocade jackets and bejewelled tops, introducing the world to, what they dubbed, the Ibiza trend.
And then there was Prada. The luxury Italian brand introduced a pair of sandals this spring with a "unique" design—so unique, in fact, that anyone with any roots in Indian heritage immediately recognised them as Kolhapuri chappals. While Kolhapuris have been in fashion in India since the 12th and 13th centuries, the mention of the handcrafted Maharashtrian footwear was nowhere in Prada’s Spring/Summer catalogue.
Although Indians, rightly, took it as a call to arms, the ‘inspiration’ our culture has provided to the West is hardly new. From the early 19th century when pyjama and cashmere were adopted in the classic English lexicon to the days of the Beatles, when paisley was seen as a symbol of deviation from the norm and spiritual exploration, examples of inspiration from India are aplenty.
Today, Indian fashion staples are being re-branded—packaged, polished, and paraded on international runways with exotic new labels.
Here are five homegrown silhouettes and styles shaping the global luxury narrative, including some new names that have sprung up along the way.
Scandinavian stole = dupatta
We got the layering trend down pat long before it was en vogue globally. Fashion rental company Bipty uploaded videos on TikTok showing white models wearing sheer shawls draped across their chests last year. After a collective furore in the subcontinent, the video was deleted. But the trend remains.
And in many ways, it’s evolving.
Luxury fashion circles have embraced the “stole” as the new essential for trans-seasonal dressing—a light layer for breezy spring days or cooler summer evenings. Designers are pairing it with blazers, knitwear, and flowing dresses, showcasing its movement and versatility. Dior’s Resort 2023 show in Mumbai showcased dupatta-style scarves draped over tunics and skirts; Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection featured long silk and organza scarves floating around structured silhouettes; and The Row regularly offers long-line scarves and delicate shawl layers over fluid tunics.
Ibiza Trend = Brocade
What started off in the temple city of Varanasi has now reached the shores of Ibiza. Brocade, a fabric woven by artisans in Benares, and patronised by the Mughals (Akbar was a known patron), was recently seen in collections by Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent. Dubbed the Ibiza trend on social media, the craft’s striking metallic threads and intricate motifs are now enjoying a global renaissance.
Valentino, YSL and Etro have showcased richly embellished jackets, metallic trousers, and ornate tops, helping brocade transcend its ceremonial roots to become part of the global fashion vernacular. Styled with oversized sunglasses and breezy silhouettes, brocade is now making appearances at beach clubs in Ibiza, and cocktail events in Paris. And while the West may be seeing it as a new luxury material, we know it for what it is: a centuries-old textile tradition woven into the fabric of Indian identity.
The Dior Sharara
In May this year, beauty influencer Chiara King wore a gorgeous purple outfit by Dior—one that looked eerily similar to our very own sharara. The three-piece set even featured a dupatta, along with flared pants and a high slit tunic—something that wouldn’t look out of place at an Eid dinner in India.
Shared widely on social media and praised for its elegance, King’s look is proof that Indian silhouettes are being reinterpreted, celebrated, and proudly showcased in global fashion spaces, just without the credit or recognition.
The Reformation Lehenga
While lehengas and saris have found their way into global fashion before, they’ve typically done so with a nod, however subtle, to their South Asian roots.
From Naomi Campbell in a Manish Arora sari-gown hybrid to Gucci’s recent sari-inspired look worn by Alia Bhatt at the Met Gala, these moments have, for the most part, acknowledged their lineage. That is why Reformation’s three-piece crop top, flowing skirt and matching stole, designed and worn by American influencer Devon Lee Carlson, felt more borrowed than inspired.
Reformation, known for its sustainable aesthetic, framed it as chic resortwear. But it sparked instant recognition in Indian households as a lehenga with a West Coast makeover.
The H&M Salwar Kameez
A recent collection by the Swedish fast fashion brand showcased a ‘long camisole top’ worn over part-sheer wide-legged pants. Sounds familiar? Yes, it was unmistakably like the salwar kameez.
H&M said the design took “inspiration from current fashion trends like dresses layered over pants and the popularity of sheer pieces, as well as various plays on transparency and movement” in a statement to CNN. What would you call it?
Indy Turban by Gucci and Nordstrom
Back in 2019, Gucci introduced a line of turbans, known as the ‘Indy Full Turbans’ that sold for USD 790 (approximately INR 69,200) on Nordstrom. Reimagined as a gender-fluid, statement accessory, it evoked memories of the turbans worn by Sikhs. Seen as culturally insensitive by Sikhs in India and abroad, it was eventually discontinued with Nordstrom even apologising for stocking it.
The Bottom Line
Global appreciation comes with its own complexities—questions of credit, naming, and recognition. But the fact remains that India’s rich history and culture have always served as inspiration for the rest of the world.
Besides, there’s something infinitely satisfying about watching the world fall in love with what we’ve always known to be beautiful. It’s not just about fashion—it’s about storytelling, memory, and craft handed down through generations. And, who knows, this very popularity might help us fall in love again and revive the crafts that we’ve had for centuries but may have forgotten.
