Before Sabyasachi Mukherjee Returns To NYFW, Revisit His Most Iconic Runway Moments

“The truth is, I never really left. I simply chose to build, quietly,” shared Indian courtier and luxury fashion designer, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, via an Instagram post on the afternoon of July 2, 2026. The previous morning, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CDFA) released a preliminary schedule for New York Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 edition. Among 50 odd runway shows, Mukherjee’s eponymous label Sabyasachi is scheduled to return to New York Fashion Week (NYFW) after 17 years on September 15, 2026, at 4 pm EST. Mukherjee’s statement came in response to the buzz online, having stayed away from fashion week shows for most part of his career.

While additional details are yet to be disclosed, the Instagram post went on to state that the “New York show will be restrained” and focused on clothes, choosing quality over novelty and craftsmanship over performance. Through this collection, Mukherjee seeks to interpret the “wise soul” of modern India, which is often misunderstood by the world. As we brace ourselves for the upcoming NYFW presentation, let us take a look at his decades old connection to the Big Apple and other career-defining shows in the life and legacy of the label and its master couturier.

The New York Connection

Mukherjee made his NYFW debut in 2006 with Snail, a prescient “slow luxury collection” that championed sustainability and raised awareness of mindless consumption long before the word came into fashion. Blending heritage artisanal crafts and modern silhouettes, the collection highlighted the label’s commitment to craftsmanship and to creating modern heirlooms. He presented what became his last NYFW runway show in 2009 before stepping away from the calendar.

Thirteen years after this debut, Mukherjee made one of India’s boldest business moves on the global fashion stage with the opening of a flagship store in New York’s West Village in October, 2022. This downtown boutique — with its carefully chosen Indian artworks, cut glass and carved wood decor, and mother-of-pearl-inlaid furniture — has been the strongest anchor for Sabyasachi in the city. Moreover, partnerships with premier luxury retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman opened new markets and audiences for the label and provided a consistent presence and relevance in the city. 

Earlier in 2022, Mukherjee designed his first Met Gala look for Indian entrepreneur and philanthropist Natasha Poonawalla: a custom gold tulle sari with an extended train, paired with Schiaparelli’s sculptural gold corset and headpiece. Two years later, he designed Alia Bhatt’s mint-green saree, featuring a dramatic 23-foot train. Joining her, Mukherjee became the first Indian designer ever to walk the Met Gala red carpet. He returned to the city again in 2025 with Shah Rukh Khan — having designed the Bollywood actor’s first-ever Met Gala look, which featured an all-black ensemble with layered necklaces, a crystal “K” pendant, and a jewelled cane.

A Master Of Debuts: From Mumbai To Milan

Before reaching America’s shores, Mukherjee made his first-ever runway debut in 2002 at Lakmé India Fashion Week in Mumbai. Kashgaar Bazaar, his debut collection, which was a refreshing take on the country’s craft practices, included Western-inspired contours yet retained an Indianness in its essence. The collection used different textile traditions and intricate embroidery, styled with books and glasses as a nod to Kolkata’s cultural and intellectual spirit. 

In 2004, Mukherjee flew to Italy for his first international fashion week debut in Milan. At Milan Fashion Week, his collection, The Frog Princess borrowed elements of vintage, lived-in attire that were a Victorian staple. Think jackets and layered skirts with satin prints, velvet lining, long silhouettes on pea coats and blousons layered over a sari. Most unconventionally, the models walked onto the runway as poets, painters, and writers — some with smeared lipsticks and others with loaves of bread in their hands.

Sabyasachi At Home: 25th Anniversary Show In Mumbai, 2025

Having built a global clothing brand over a quarter of a century, Sabyasachi celebrated its 25th anniversary in January 2025 with a guest list of 600 people. Mumbai’s Jio World Convention Centre was completely transformed to carry you to the bylanes of North Kolkata, awash with the nostalgia of old garments strung on clotheslines between old houses.

Opening with Bollywood actor Deepika Padukone, over 150 looks were presented as part of the celebration, featuring fabrics sourced from Mongolia, Japan, and France, with zardozi and gotta-patti work, velvet appliqués, sequined mini skirts, faux fur dresses, signature tinted glasses, and large carryalls, paired with lavish pieces from the house’s fine jewellery line.

The idea of the collection was to revisit the ideals of the past collection and modernise them for the new generation. Closing the show was American supermodel Christy Turlington, who emerged in a black-and-white cashmere set, paired with layered neckpieces and an eye-catching stack of bangles.

Over the years, Mukherjee’s restrained patience and rigorous understanding of craftsmanship, luxury, and fashion as a business have collectively earned him global renown. With the September reveal of his Spring/Summer '27 collection, we can’t wait to see what he brings to the city 20 years after his first-ever debut at NYFW.