Chef Rahul Akerkar’s memoir, Biting Off More Than I Can Chew, is a witty take on his four decades in the world of restaurants — an exhilarating rollercoaster with the ups, the downs, and the priceless lessons in between. This book is as honest, sharp, and even irreverent as he is.
Akerkar didn’t set out to be a culinary icon, though. He was pursuing a PhD in biochemical engineering when he pivoted towards New York’s gritty restaurant scene. He, then, returned to Mumbai with a clear, unconventional vision, breaking away from rigid ideas of fine dining. Over the years, he went on to open several influential restaurants, including Indigo Delicatessen, Neel, Qualia, Ode, Waarsa, and, most recently, Flint, each contributing to a rapidly evolving food culture in India. Robb Report India caught up with the man who took chances, pushed boundaries, and helped shape modern Indian dining.
Rahul Akerkar(RA) : I’ve never really cooked to chase trends; they tend to age badly. At Indigo, even back then, the idea was to cook with integrity and curiosity. Travel, eat, absorb, but don’t imitate!
Indian diners have evolved dramatically over the years. They’re far more informed and adventurous now. But at the end of the day, what works here still needs a sense of relevance, flavour, comfort, and a certain generosity and graciousness. You can’t just lift something off a plate in Copenhagen and expect it to resonate in Mumbai.
So the balance, if there is one, comes from filtering everything through your own lens of your experiences, your context, and your audience. It really lies in restraint that comes from knowing what to adopt, adapt, and leave out. This keeps things honest.
RA: Luxury used to be defined by what you could show — crystal, caviar, chandeliers. Today, it’s far more about how something makes you feel.
There’s a shift toward intimacy, storytelling, and authenticity. Guests are less impressed by excess and more by thoughtfulness, whether that’s in the sourcing, the service, or just the sense that someone has really paid attention.
Also, there’s a growing confidence in our own Indian identity. We’re no longer trying to mimic the West but are busy interpreting luxury on our own terms. That shift is both significant and long overdue, and a far more interesting place to be.
RA: It wasn’t a single moment so much as a gradual realisation. The restaurant business has a way of drawing you in quietly. What begins as a profession becomes, over time, something far more consuming. Somewhere along the way, you realise that despite the unpredictability and the demands, there’s nothing else you’d rather be doing. For me, that understanding came not in a moment of success, but in the rhythm of the work itself.
RA: Don’t open a restaurant because it sounds glamorous. It isn’t.
It’s essential to understand that restaurants are, first and foremost, businesses. A strong concept is important, but it needs to be supported by sound financials, consistent execution, and a deeply engaged team. Consistency is far more important than brilliance. Equally, there’s value in knowing when to evolve or step away. Also, if you’re not willing to stand in your own restaurant at midnight fixing a problem, you probably shouldn’t be in this business. There are just too many moving parts, and you constantly have to fire-fight.
RA: It is all about staying interested and being responsive to change. The minute you feel like you’ve figured it out, you’re in trouble. This industry changes too quickly, and it has a way of humbling you just when you get comfortable. I’ve been fortunate to have had different phases in my journey over almost four decades, from Under The Over, to Indigo, and the later projects like Qualia, and now Ode and Flint. Each one came from a place of curiosity rather than strategy. If there’s any “secret,” it’s probably just showing up, paying attention, and being willing to start over when needed.
RA: The book was, in many ways, a way to make sense of everything that’s happened so far. What’s next is a bit more fluid. I’m enjoying the space to think, to cook when I feel like it, and to engage with the industry differently, whether that’s through collaborations, mentoring, or just conversations. I’m not in a hurry to build something for the sake of it. If the next chapter happens, it’ll come from the right place.