

It’s nearing lunchtime when I open my eyes. It takes me a second to locate where I am. I feel something gently wobbling beneath me. I quickly realise I may have taken my spa therapist’s instructions to lie down on the heated water bed a tad too seriously, and completely nodded off.
With a flicker of embarrassment, yet feeling utterly relaxed, I slowly wake up as the water bed continues to cradle me. I’m at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, tucked 6 km away from central Ubud.
While most luxury resorts on the island are synonymous with ocean views, this one beckons you inland. Here, the Ayung River—Bali’s longest and most revered river—is winding through the heart of the estate and is evidently its pièce de résistance.
Although the resort has been around since 1998, its Sacred River Spa was redesigned in late 2024. It generously sprawls across 53,496 square feet and features seven spa villas. Mine is complete with an open-air changing area, an outdoor hand-carved stone bathtub and advanced treatment beds.
Though luxurious, it has an unmistakable tropical feel. Lotus ponds and luscious gardens envelop the space. Inside, earthy hues and thatched roofs ooze a gratifying synergy of old-world charm and modern comfort.
But the latest addition to the property’s wellness offerings is the Silent Retreat programme. Launched in May this year, it’s especially designed for solo travellers seeking respite from the humdrum of modern life.
I continue with my 150-minute signature treatment Tirta Ening, part of the Silent Retreat.
This multi-sensory experience takes inspiration from tirta (water)—the most sacred element in Balinese spirituality. I’m told, in a way, it’s a contemporary take on the island’s ancient purification traditions. The sequence includes steam therapy, a waterbed massage and a crystal-infused water cleansing ritual. I’m then invited to lie under The Hydro Rain Vichy shower (by HydroCo Australia), which pays homage to Bali’s UNESCO-listed subak irrigation system and recreates the sensation of sleeping under monsoon showers.
“Like tirta, silence in Balinese culture is also considered sacred,” says Luisa Anderson, Regional Director, Spa & Wellness, Four Seasons Resorts Bali. Thus, the island celebrates New Year every March with the Day of Silence, locally called Nyepi. During Nyepi, a 24-hour digital detox is practiced, with both work and entertainment coming to a halt. Instead, banjars (communities) use this time to pray, meditate, fast and introspect.
Silent Retreat essentially follows the same philosophy. For one week, guests disconnect completely with no access to Wi-Fi or television. Much like in The White Lotus Season 3, your phones are also handed over to the staff. That’s not all; to encourage mindful eating, sattvic, plant-based meals are served in the privacy of your villa or in quiet spaces within the resort.
A former Buddhist nun, Ibu Fera guides the experience alongside a team of local healers and practitioners, many of whom have decades of experience. Time is spent learning ceremonial rituals such as making gebogan (offerings made of fruit) and weaving klangsah (mats from dried coconut leaves). A sample itinerary would also include Kundalini yoga, chakra balancing, crystal reiki sessions, and spa treatments.
The next morning I’m escorted on a private tour with my guide Robbie. On the way to a destination whose name remains a mystery, he briefs me, “To protect the privacy of the community, we request you to keep the location of the village undisclosed.” Immediately, the title of the tour, “Can you keep a secret?”, makes perfect sense to me.
Robbie goes on to explain that the excursion is intentionally scheduled on the final day of the Silent Retreat. “By taking guests to hidden local sites, away from the crowds, the experience gently reintroduces you to the world after days of silence.”
I spend the next couple of hours participating in local temple rituals and visiting a rice-farming village. A time-etched family home awaits me, where I’m introduced to Balinese customs and get a glimpse of the quiet everyday life. I also interact with regional artisans, who teach me the craft of canang sari (handwoven baskets made of palm leaves, used as offerings).
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan features 60 rooms. Your stay can be tailored to your preferred accommodation depending on the package you choose. In my case, it was the Royal Villa.
The Royal Villa is priced at (approximately Rs 9,16,557) USD 9,700++ per night, and has welcomed the likes of the Obama family.
Upon arrival, what I see before me can be best described as a cocoon of calm. Forest highlands and rice paddies flank this blissfully secluded, ultra-private hideout. It’s perched above the valley without a soul in sight—just views of the Ayung River as far as I can see.
It features three bedrooms, al-fresco living and dining pavilions and a private pool. The designs celebrate Indonesian craftsmanship, with a rare collection of art, woodwork and handwoven textiles, including ikat.
Silent Retreat also includes airport transfers and personal ‘life talk’ sessions.