Looking for a good hotel in London with super comfortable beds, a bit of character, spacious rooms that don’t follow the 'wall-to-wall beige' brigade, with courteous, efficient staff in a neighbourhood that’s both local and lovely? It’s not as easy as you think.
The Chelsea Townhouse, which opened at the end of 2023 and is now part of the Relais & Châteaux and Iconic Luxury Hotels family, is a perfect fit. It’s located right next to Pavilion Road, voted one of Britain’s best streets and London’s favourite lifestyle destinations. The charming pedestrian walkway runs from chic Sloane Square, with its stylish stores like Conran and David Mellor kitchenware, to a cluster of neighbourhood staples: butcher, baker, cheesemonger, and artisanal grocer. It’s a street filled with locals and a handful of tourists who, thankfully, don’t seem to be the selfie-taking, white-sneaker-and-jeans crowd.
The Chelsea Townhouse comprises 36 rooms and suites, spread across three elegant red-brick houses linked by staircases, narrow corridors, and hidden passageways. For those who prefer less intrigue, there’s a small, wood-panelled lift. The building was once the London residence of Lord and Lady Astor—figures synonymous with political clout, social finesse, and society intrigue.
While their country estate, Cliveden House, may have been the setting for many of the 20th century’s most storied scandals, it was here in Chelsea that city life unfolded: dinners with diplomats, soirees with poets, and the quieter rituals of power. The portrait above the reception desk is a John Singer Sargent, depicting a young Nancy Astor shortly after her 1906 marriage to politician Waldorf Astor. Both American-born, the couple built the townhouse in 1890, and pieces from their impressive and sizeable art collection are scattered throughout the hotel. If you’re a fan of period dramas like The Gilded Age, you’ll find echoes of that world everywhere here.
Expect original marble fireplaces, ornate crown mouldings, and striking period furniture that infuse the space with grandeur and charm. But this is no museum. Thankfully, there are no creaky beds or stuck drawers from another century. Instead, you’ll find perfect pillows, deep velvet sofas, indulgent bathrooms, and all the right modern amenities.
Several Garden Suites offer direct access to the private Cadogan Gardens, a tranquil and exclusive oasis filled with towering mulberry trees, lush greenery, and birdsong. All guests have access to this private space. While the hotel has a relaxed all-day dining salon, a cosy library, and à la carte breakfast (everything is home-made), all other dining takes place at its sister hotel, 11 Cadogan Gardens, just around the corner.
That includes a notably good afternoon tea—the best lemon curd and scones I’ve had in London, and coronation chicken on choux buns, served with a glass or two of Laurent Perrier. Hans’ Bar & Grill has a more casual approach to dining, where they usually use locally sourced ingredients. It is the ideal place to go when you’re craving a good steak, triple-cooked chips, a fresh bowl of salad, or a comforting sticky toffee pudding.
The Chelsea Townhouse’s prime location is ideal for exploring Chelsea, Knightsbridge, and Belgravia.
RR Verdict
Staying at The Chelsea Townhouse feels like stepping into your own period drama, in the best way possible. With plenty to see and do within walking distance—whether your interest lies in gardens, art, shopping, or food—it’s an address that offers both character and comfort. Silent air-conditioning, an essential in London’s increasingly tropical summers, seals the deal.
The only glitch? All food and drink (except breakfast) is served at the sister hotel across the garden. It would be nice to have a small dining room or cocktail bar on-site. But then again, who minds a stroll through the gardens?
