Narlai is strategically located in the heart of Rajasthan’s Pali district, a two-hour drive from either Udaipur or Jodhpur airport. A village cocooned in tradition, it is home to over 300 ancient Hindu and Jain temples and is surrounded by granite rock formations millions of years old and burgeoning wildlife, with a population of around 10,000. It is rural Rajasthan at its glorious best—where wildlife and heritage converge, anchored by the beautiful boutique property Rawla Narlai at its heart.
The Stay
I check into Rawla Narlai on a crisp winter morning—a property that has flown under the radar for years. This 17th-century fortress, now converted into a boutique hotel with 30 rooms, is a haven for those seeking a segue from the chaos of city life. Here, experiential travel truly comes to life, with the property offering a range of distinctive experiences, including private safaris that explore the region’s unbridled wildlife, where more than 20 leopards coexist within a 15 sq km radius alongside local villagers.
Established as an exclusive boutique resort in 1996, the rooms are arranged around a series of flower-filled courtyards. Marble and stone form the pillars of the heritage structure, while local textiles and fabrics are integral to the interiors and the hotel’s décor. Portraits of the erstwhile royal family of Jodhpur and other princely states line the corridors, adding a touch of nostalgia.
The property offers several categories of accommodation, including Grand Heritage Rooms, Grand Heritage Suites, and the Luxury Grand Heritage category, with the singular Narlai Suite located on the topmost floor, overlooking both the property and the pool. Spanning 2,000 square feet and featuring a private terrace, the Narlai Suite is accented with local accessories, textiles, and furniture. Like all the other rooms, it is equipped with modern amenities, including a one-click Netflix connection and spa services.
The hotel is an embodiment of heritage meeting modernity—never overt, but thoughtfully integrating the elements today’s global traveller seeks. With a staff of 130, service is swift.
The Wildlife
Once a private hunting reserve for the maharajas of Jodhpur, Rawla Narlai is today the only property in the region to offer private safaris to experience Narlai’s wildlife. With four naturalists and guides on site, the hotel conducts two safaris daily, each lasting over two hours and covering 12–15 km per game drive.
I set out on my first safari at dusk, traversing Narlai’s rugged terrain with Sanjay Bhandari, a Corbett local who has been based in Narlai for the past two years. Intimately familiar with the region’s leopards, Bhandari explains, “There are also 200 species of birds, striped hyenas, antelopes, caracals, wild boars, and sloth bears.” Still, it is the elusive leopard that holds our focus. About an hour into the drive, we spot not one but two, playfully engaged with what appears to have been their prey, tucked into a granite crevice. Throughout the journey, Bhandari is meticulous in pointing out details of the region’s flora and fauna.
The Experiences
What Rawla Narlai does beautifully is curate experiences—whether it is a hi-tea overlooking a lake, a sunrise breakfast perched on a hillock with the spread laid out on a jeep hood, or an al fresco lunch beneath an ancient banyan tree, with a menu built around seasonal local produce from the village and neighbouring areas.
The standout for me, however, is the stepwell dinner. The 11th-century stepwell, lit at night with hundreds of candles, creates a setting that is both magical and mesmerising. A 15-minute bullock-cart ride (or a jeep ride, if you prefer) takes you to the stepwell’s entrance, illuminated for the Stepwell Soiree, which is hosted almost every evening. A five-course menu inspired by the flavours of Rajasthan is served to the soulful strains of Jogi music, while local women prepare hot breads on the chulha. It is a meeting point of Rajasthan’s rich traditions of culture, cuisine, and custom.
The Dining
The food and beverage offering at the resort is well rounded, with continental dishes that are surprisingly flavourful. One can also enjoy a tipple at the J-Bar or relax at the Jharokha Café. The menus focus on cultivating, sourcing, and using fresh, local ingredients, making the Jharokha Café an ideal spot to linger over a leisurely bite.
The Narlai Suite is priced at Rs. 45,000 + taxes per night.
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