

There are luxury watches that you buy because you like them, and then there are watches that quietly change the direction of a collection. Audemars Piguet has plenty of the latter. The Royal Oak may be the name that first comes to mind, but spend a little longer with the catalogue and the picture becomes considerably more interesting: modern round cases, perpetual calendars and movements that are almost as compelling to look at as the watches themselves. For collectors, these top 5 Audemars Piguet watches, including Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Ref. 16202, Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Code 11.59 and more, offer a particularly good tour through the design language and watchmaking expertise.
Every serious conversation about Audemars Piguet eventually arrives at the Royal Oak Jumbo. The current Ref. 16202 retains the visual codes of the original 1972 Royal Oak 5402 while bringing the mechanics up to date with AP's Calibre 7121. The steel model measures 39mm wide and just 8.1mm thick, preserving the slim proportions that define the Jumbo. It isn't simply the obvious AP to own. It is the watch that explains the brand's modern identity.
If the Royal Oak is the most recognisable face of the company, Audemars Piguet Selfwinding watch shows another side of the manufacturer. Introduced in 2019, the collection moves away from the familiar octagonal architecture towards a round case and a distinctly contemporary design language. With its range of materials, colours and complications, this Selfwinding watch makes an interesting counterpoint to the Royal Oak. Not every Audemars Piguet watch needs to look like an AP you have seen before.
The Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Code 11.59 (Ref. 26394BC) takes the collection firmly into haute horlogerie territory. Its 18-carat white-gold case frames a blue aventurine dial reminiscent of a star-filled sky, while the perpetual-calendar mechanism accounts for varying month lengths and leap years. It is a sophisticated reminder that AP's contemporary designs can carry serious complications just as convincingly as its classics.
Want the unmistakable Royal Oak with considerably more happening beneath the dial? The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar delivers exactly that. Current versions bring the familiar Royal Oak architecture together with technically ambitious materials, including ceramic and precious metals. It is the meeting point between most recognisable design of the company and one of traditional watchmaking's most demanding complications.
The Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph Ref. 26240 brings a huge practical complication. The 41mm model is powered by the manufacturer's Calibre 4401, an integrated self-winding flyback chronograph movement. The stainless-steel version pairs the classic Royal Oak case and bracelet with Audemars Piguet's signature Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 Grande Tapisserie dial, making it a strong choice for collectors who want everyday wearability with serious mechanical credentials.
The best Audemars Piguet collection is not necessarily the one with the biggest price tags. It is the one that tells the story of what the wathmaker can do. Start with the Royal Oak Jumbo, add the unconventional Code 11.59, then bring in perpetual calendars and an openworked movement, and suddenly the collection becomes much more than 5 expensive Audemars Piguet watches.
That is the appeal of Audemars Piguet: The icon gets you through the door. The watchmaking gives you a reason to stay.