For Tarang Arora, CEO and Creative Director of Amrapali Jewels and a longtime watch enthusiast, the conversation around a watch begins with how a piece actually holds up in daily life, how its design translates off the wrist, and whether the engineering justifies the reverence. His perspective is built on years spent studying movement innovation, case architecture, and the quiet details that separate lasting pieces from fleeting hype.
This selection features eight timepieces Arora believes every serious watch collector should consider, from the architectural restraint of F.P. Journe to the sculptural ambition of MB&F, each recommended for reasons that go beyond market value.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/60G
The relaxed confidence is what draws Tarang in. “It’s a beautiful, very sporty watch,” he notes, pointing to the dial. “That denim colour makes it feel very everyday.” White gold may not be the most practical choice, but the overall balance compensates. “The colour combination and the way the watch comes together is what makes it special.” Powered by Patek Philippe’s in-house automatic flyback chronograph calibre CH 28-520 C, the 5980/60G blends casual aesthetics with high-complication watchmaking.
MB&F × Bulgari Serpenti
MB&F’s catalogue runs deep, but for Arora, the Bulgari × MB&F Serpenti stands apart. “Sleek, but still bold,” he says, noting how clearly the serpent form comes through despite the complexity of its execution. The mechanical experimentation elevates it further. “All the testing and movement innovation MB&F does is what makes this a masterpiece.” Limited in production and driven by a bespoke MB&F movement with rotating hour and minute domes, the watch exists at the intersection of sculpture, jewellery, and mechanical invention.
Vacheron Constantin Master Complications
Rather than a single reference, Arora points to Vacheron Constantin’s tradition of extreme high complications produced under its Les Cabinotiers division. “I think they make some of the finest and most complicated watches out there,” he says. Often created as one-off or highly bespoke pieces, these watches combine multiple calendars, chiming functions, and astronomical indications, representing the pinnacle of traditional Swiss watchmaking.
Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 6300
“This is the OG,” Arora states plainly. “It has so many avatars.” From precious-metal executions to gem-set editions, he believes they all work. What defines the Grandmaster Chime is contrast. “It’s subtle and bold at the same time. Classic, but still powerful on the wrist.” Featuring 20 complications and a reversible case with two dials, the Ref. 6300 is conceived as a generational object rather than a conventional timepiece.
F.P. Journe Élégante 48 mm Titanium
The titanium Élégante has become a modern favourite, and Tarang understands why. “You see it a lot now, and for good reason.” Its restraint is the appeal. “Titanium with a blue strap keeps it understated. Versatility matters here. Change the strap, and it works just as well with a suit as it does casually.” Its electro-mechanical movement automatically enters sleep mode when unworn, conserving energy and setting it apart from traditional mechanical watches.
Cartier Crash
Few watches carry the cultural weight of the Cartier Crash. For Arora, its strength lies in balance. “It’s innovative, but it still feels classical.” The distorted case has never followed trends, which is precisely why it endures. “It doesn’t look like anything else, and that’s why it works.” Produced in limited numbers across decades, the Crash continues to blur the line between jewellery, art, and horology.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra
At approximately 1.8 mm in total thickness, the Octo Finissimo Ultra ranks among the thinnest mechanical watches ever created. Tarang typically prefers watches with physical presence, but the engineering here earns his respect. “The fact that it’s this thin and still functional makes it a serious collection piece.” For him, it represents progress. “This is history-level watchmaking.” The Ultra stands as a technical milestone in contemporary horology.
