Ralph Lauren Forgot to Credit Bandhani, but This Is How Deep Its Roots Are

This is not the first time luxury maison Ralph Lauren has found itself in this very conversation. Earlier this year, the brand drew criticism for presenting jhumkas at the Fall 2026 collection of Paris Fashion Week with no mention of its Indian origins. The Bandhani skirt controversy follows the same pattern, and for many, the patterm is the main concern.

History of Bandhani

Dating back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, the earliest evidence of Bandhani goes back to as early as 4000 BC. The word itself arrives from the Sanskrit word 'bandh', which means 'to tie'. The craft, if put in simple words, involves tying small pieces of fabric and dyeing them, resulting in intricate patterns. To identify an original Bandhani, you'll notice that the hand-tied dots are slightly uneven, with patterns visible on both sides, and a crinkled texture retained from the knots. Diving a little deeper into the cultural belt of India, in Gujarat, the Gharcholu, a type of Bandhani fabric is tied to the groom's shoulder cloth as the couple walks around the sacred fire.

Years later in April 2021, Kutch Bandhani earned a Geographical Indication Tag (GI Tag). The recognition of the textile’s cultural and historical significance ensured that only authentic Bandhani curated by skilled artisans based in Kutch can bear the name. Cut to today, the Indian textile has once again found its way into the limelight.

What Really Happened?

At the centre of the whole debate is the label’s printed cotton wrap skirt available on Ralph’s official website for Rs 44,800. On the website, the skirt was described as a design inspired by traditional Bandhani tie-dye techniques and motifs, featuring a wrap silhouette with a tied-up waist and a flowy, angled hem. Although the issue, as critics have pointed out, is not that Ralph Lauren mentioned Bandhani. It is a fact that India was not mentioned as the origin. Apart from this, the price sits at a level no artisan producing authentic Bandhani would seek any benefit from. For those who don’t know, a metre of genuine Bandhani fabric that is sold in Indian markets cost between Rs 200-500. This episode has further underscored ongoing tensions in the fashion industry, all around cultural inspiration, attribution, and pricing. As of now, Ralph Lauren has not responded to the backlash at the time of writing.

The pattern, as it happens, is not new by the way. At its Spring/Summer 2026 Menswear Show in Milan last year, Prada faced backlash for using Kolhapuri chappals and not giving credits. Although, the brand issued an acknowledgement, after criticism. Similarly, in June 2021, Gucci faced backlash for introducing India-inspired kurtis and kaftans, mentioning it was first introduced as a part of Gucci’s 1996 collection. And in June 2025, Dior was in the news for a $200,000 (approx Rs 1.85 crore) coat featuring embroidery work using Lucknowi Mukaish embroidery (an ancient embroidery technique that involves twisting thin strips of metal, into fabric resulting in shimmering patterns). The maison failed to mention the 34 Indian artisans who worked over 34 days to finish the piece.