Masaba Gupta and Tarang Arora on Introducing a 52-Piece Limited Collection for Fine Jewellery Lovers

For those who are familiar with Masaba Gupta’s craft, know that her designs are infused with bold storytelling, cultural remixing, and are unapologetically fearless. Recently, the multifaceted designer debuted a fine jewellery collection in collaboration with Tarang Arora, Creative Director and CEO of Jaipur-based Amrapali Jewels.

16 years since founding her label, Gupta continues to channel her Indian and Antiguan roots into her work, now extending to a 52-piece fine jewellery collection.  

Back in 2019, The House of Masaba’s first collaboration with Amrapali Jewels’ sub-brand Tribe featured jewellery pieces that were affordable. Their latest brings together one-of-a-kind tourmalines, peridots, tanzanite, citrines, topazes, diamonds, pearls, rubies, and emeralds. The result is a collection that doesn’t just exist to be inside a locker but has a place in everyday life. The collection includes chokers, heavy-set necklaces, earrings, stackable bracelets, and bangles.

Speaking about the collab, Arora says, “Masaba brings modernity and colour. We bring technical depth and legacy. The result is evolution without dilution.” 

In this exclusive interview, Masaba and Tarang discuss the evolution of Masaba’s motif into fine jewellery, the traditional jewellery techniques behind the collection, and how the collaboration honours craftsmanship while also being true to the idea of evolution. 

Robb Report India: Amrapali’s legacy is rooted in Jaipur’s craftsmanship. Which traditional techniques were most integral to executing Volume II? 

Tarang Arora: Jaipur is not just where we are based, but it is the soul of everything we create. For Volume II, the most integral techniques were traditional gemstone carving, intricate hand-setting, and antique gold finishing. 

The carved emeralds, in particular, required the kind of artisanal mastery that Jaipur has been known for centuries. Each emerald had to be hand-sculpted and then carefully set to retain its softness and depth. We also worked extensively with 18K gold finished in an antique texture, a technique that demands restraint and precision so that it looks heirloom-like, not artificially aged. 

At Amrapali, we have always believed in preserving India’s craft vocabulary while evolving its expression. Volume II continues that philosophy, using heritage techniques interpreted through a more playful, contemporary lens. 

Robb Report India: Volume II feels younger and more expressive. How did you evolve your signature motifs into forms that translate meaningfully into fine jewellery? 

Masaba Gupta: I think we learned a lot from Volume I. The learning was that people are very experimental with jewellery if you offer them something that feels a little apart from the usual. But we also learned that people do not always want something that is very, very large. It can be small and still be a statement. 

That was the whole endeavour with Volume II. If you see, there are a lot more smaller pieces, which I call snackables or stackables. You have bracelets that you can wear with your everyday stack, smaller earrings that you can wear daily, and pendants that can be layered with your usual jewellery. 

Robb Report India: Your mascots, such as the Nandi and the Palm, return in 18-karat gold. What does it take to reinterpret such graphic symbols into heirloom-worthy pieces? 

Masaba Gupta: The evolution of the motifs has been very clear for anyone to see. If you have been an early adopter of the brand, you have seen them as digital prints, then move into foil prints, and very quickly into curios, accents, décor, and furniture pieces you could put in your space. In fact, I know someone who has the big pink Nandi in their home as décor. Moving them into fine jewellery felt like a natural progression. 

I am also conscious of the consumer adopting both Amrapali and House of Masaba. They are growing and evolving as well. Their behaviour has changed, and the way they interact with products has changed. They are very clear that they want investment pieces that are also for everyday wear. They do not want to put them away in a locker. 

So, the use of motif has moved from kitsch, fun, and playful to something that now feels refined within fine jewellery. 

Robb Report India: As a second-generation custodian of the brand, how do collaborations like this help evolve Amrapali’s identity? 

Tarang Arora: Growing up in Jaipur, surrounded by history and craft, I have always seen Amrapali as a storyteller of Indian jewellery heritage. My father built this brand on the foundation of research, travel, and deep respect for traditional artistry. As a second-generation jeweller, my role is not to replace that foundation, but to reinterpret it for today’s audience. 

Collaborations like this allow us to introduce new emotional languages while staying rooted in craft. Masaba brings modernity and colour. We bring technical depth and legacy. The result is evolution without dilution. 

Heritage cannot remain static. It must breathe, adapt, and converse with contemporary culture. That is how a 46-year-old brand remains relevant, not by abandoning tradition, but by allowing it to speak in new voices.

Robb Report India: Fine jewellery carries permanence and value. How do you balance your instinct for playfulness with the responsibility of creating pieces meant to last generations? 

Masaba Gupta: I do not know why people do not believe playful can last generations. That is really my whole endeavour with this jewellery line. You can have fun with pieces, like clothing, where they can be extremely expressive and conversation starters, but still serious in a way that they hold value tomorrow. 

I really want to bring the fun back into jewellery. I want to bring the Indian consumer closer to what is happening globally on the jewellery landscape. There is a very specific kind of person who buys the Camera pendant versus the Nandi. The Nandi is someone more traditional who is saying, “Let me play with this new version of jewellery.” The Camera is someone who is completely playful. All the pieces in their collection carry that hint of playfulness. 

I want to reinstate that jewellery does not have to be boring. People are bored, if you ask me. They are tired of the haar, the choker, and the polki. They want something expressive, and that is what we are doing. 

Robb Report India: How are you seeing client behaviour shift in the fine jewellery space, particularly among seasoned collectors? 

Tarang Arora: We are definitely seeing a shift towards intentional buying. A tightly edited 52-piece capsule creates focus. Today’s seasoned collectors are less interested in volume and more invested in narrative. They want to understand the story behind a carved emerald, the reasoning behind a motif, and the craftsmanship that goes into antique gold finishing. 

Appointment-only previews create intimacy. Clients want conversation, context, and curation, not just display. Fine jewellery is becoming more personal and more expressive. It is no longer only about occasion dressing. It is about everyday identity. 

Collectors are also increasingly drawn to pieces that feel distinctive and slightly unconventional, what we call craveables and stackables. They want heirlooms, yes, but heirlooms with personality. That, to me, signals a very exciting evolution in the fine jewellery space.