Prince Richard Shivaji Rao Holkar Talks Craft, Culture, and the Future of Maheshwari Weaving

In Maheshwar, where the Narmada glitters against age-old ghats and the steady hum of looms still echoes through the lanes, heritage isn’t something locked in the past; it’s woven into everyday life. As the 300th birth anniversary of Devi Ahilyabai Holkar is celebrated, the legendary queen’s vision for turning this riverside town into a cultural and spiritual hub feels more relevant than ever.

Today, that legacy is carried forward by Prince Richard Shivaji Rao Holkar, who, through REHWA Society and the newly launched Devi Ahilya Collection, is keeping Maheshwar’s weaving traditions alive, reviving near-forgotten techniques, and showing how threads can continue to bind heritage, livelihood, and community into one timeless fabric. In this exclusive interview, we explore how centuries-old weaving techniques, near-lost motifs, and women artisans are being resurrected, not as relics, but as living arts and a forward-looking culture.

This year marks the 300th birth anniversary of Devi Ahilyabai Holkar. How does the Devi Ahilya collection embody her vision and values for weaving, livelihood, and cultural patronage?

Devi Ahilyabai Holkar established a wide range of cultural initiatives in Maheshwar, and among them, handloom and weaving hold special significance. When she arrived in Maheshwar, she noticed a small handloom industry and recognised its potential to sustain employment in the town. To strengthen this craft, she invited weavers from Burhanpur, a prominent Muslim centre of weaving, and from Surat, a renowned Hindu centre of weaving. Many of the weavers' descendants continue to practice the craft even today. The Ahilya Devi collection is the 21st century’s flag post marking Ahilyabai’s successful vision of a thriving handloom community in Maheshwar.

The collection revives near-lost techniques such as pajni and ochna. How important do you feel it is to preserve such intricate traditions, and what steps are being taken to ensure their survival for future generations?

These near-lost techniques are like the genetic material for future generations of textile creators. Just as heirloom seeds preserve traits that help today’s plantations combat diseases and sustain biodiversity, these traditional practices safeguard the beauty and relevance of our craft. Our revival efforts, especially of techniques like pajni (street-warping), adds value to a textile that had almost disappeared. They revive the ability to weave finer, lighter qualities of yarn, particularly in pure cotton saris, ensuring these traditions continue to inspire and thrive.

How do you see the role of REHWA's weavers, most of whom are women descendants of those originally brought to Maheshwar by Ahilyabai, in sustaining the craft, and the social fabric of the community?

Women have always been an integral part of the handloom industry across India; men usually purchase materials or attend to other matters. The active role of women as earning members of society is vital, not only for sustaining the craft but also for creating a more unified community where both men and women contribute equally and meaningfully.

The saris in this collection draw inspiration from Holkar portraiture and artists like Ravi Varma while also reinterpreting colours and motifs. How do you strike the balance between heritage authenticity and contemporary relevance?

Striking the right balance means looking at the past, present, and future—all of which are essential to keep any craft relevant. If we lose sight of the past, we risk losing a wealth of technical knowledge and aesthetics that form the foundation for future creativity. We are fortunate to have imagery from our ancestors, reflected in Holkar portraiture and the works of artists like Ravi Varma, which reminds us that their aesthetic sensibilities were as valued then as they are today. These references allow us to reinterpret colours and motifs with authenticity while ensuring they resonate in a contemporary context.

Beyond weaving, REHWA has supported education, healthcare, and women’s empowerment in Maheshwar. What is your vision for expanding this impact in the years to come?

When we began working with handloom weavers in the mid-1970s, it quickly became clear that education was just as important as weaving itself. Many young mothers brought their infants to the REHWA weaving centre, but since weaving is a piece-rate process, caring for their children meant losing income. To support them, we first started a crèche. As the children grew, we realised the need for continuity, so we expanded to kindergarten and eventually classes up to grade 8.

Another significant milestone was when we received our first grant of INR 86,000 from the Central Social Welfare Board, entrusted to us by Laila Mulgaonkar. The mandate was clear: to empower women weavers. At the time, although many women in Maheshwar were skilled weavers, they often worked in the shadows of their husbands. Men would collect the wages, while nearly half the saris were woven by women who received no direct income. By ensuring that women were paid directly, we empowered them, and this income was more likely to remain within the household for the welfare of the family.

Looking to the future, Sally (Shalini Devi Holkar) established the Handloom School, which is a vital institution for the next generation. It equips weavers not only with technical skills but also with knowledge of finance, marketing, and design. The school draws students from across India, giving them a sense of belonging to a larger national community of weavers, not just to Maheshwar. This is crucial because, after agriculture, weaving is the second-largest employer in the unorganised sector. Our vision is to continue expanding this impact, through education, empowerment, and skill development, ensuring that weaving families have a sustainable and dignified future.

The Chandravati sari is both a tribute to your grandmother and to Maheshwar’s weaving legacy. What does it mean to you personally to see this masterpiece come alive through REHWA’s artisans?

The Chandravati sari is something I have lived with for the past 50 years. I have a full-size framed photograph of it beside my desk, which I look at every day. To now see it recreated as the flagship piece of the Ahilya Devi collection is truly special. It stands as a meaningful tribute to my grandmother and also as a testament to the fine skills of the Maheshwari weavers. In its aesthetics, this beautiful textile carries forward the full legacy of that tradition.