How Rahul Mishra and Divya Mishra are Paving the Way for Indian Haute Couture on a Global Stage

In this episode of Masters of Luxury, where we engage with celebrated figures redefining opulence in their respective spheres, we get candid with Rahul Mishra and Divya Mishra, the creative minds behind 'Rahul Mishra', a brand redefining fashion one masterpiece at a time.

‘Rahul Mishra’ started in 2006. How has the brand evolved, both personally and professionally, in the last two decades?

Rahul Mishra [RM]: In 2006, when I did my first show, I was studying at NID (National Institute of Design), and one of my directors, Dr. Kaushik from NID, sent my entry. I remember hand-carrying all the clothes. Half the clothes were stitched at an NID studio, and half were stitched by a tailor who was helping me. The show happened in March of 2006, and Divya [Mishra] joined NID in June of 2006. [The Lakme Fashion Week] GenNext show gave me very good visibility. It was all over primetime television, and everybody was talking about the show. But the best thing it did was, at NID, it suddenly gave me stardom. And it was easy for me to get Divya. [smiles]

Divya Mishra [DM]: It's been an overwhelming journey. It's one where we've seen through thick and thin. Especially when you don't come from a family with a silver spoon. Ours are self-made journeys with the support of families and mentors. Mentors who have helped us at different levels. It's about the people who've come across our way, be the embroiderers, the master craftspeople who have taught us a lot. And, for Rahul and me, we always strive for the best product and best design outcome. And things always fall in place for some reason. Yes, we have also seen failures. There were shaky grounds sometimes, but you must just keep going. So, the evolution of brand Rahul Mishra today, what you see in the larger perspective, is a global brand for people around the globe, right from India, Delhi, Paris, LA, to New York. And it is teamwork, and a lot of patience.

When you're building a luxury brand, it's also about bringing together a community with you. And these are slow steps. There's no escalator to it. We still have a long way to go. And you go with the flow.

There are three principles that your site keeps mentioning--environment, empowerment, and employment. How did you come to the principle of the three Es for the brand?

DM: The story for Rahul started with the handloom sector. Right now, everyone does handloom [and] craft. But back then, when the world was moving towards films, polyesters, and costumes, there was a boy doing a Kerala handloom reversible with very simple aesthetics and just making construction. It was a classroom project, and his mentors showed him a way to go back to Kerala and do things. It's integrated automatically into the design process. And that became the talisman, that became the ground philosophy foundation of this brand where we stand now.

RM: There was a beautiful course at NID called DCC, Design Concepts and Concerns. And I would love to remember our late professor MP Ranjan--all the philosophies which are inculcated at early stages in NID--they all started because of him. He often took us to the Kochrab ashram, where Mahatma Gandhi spent a lot of time. We thought about khadi, what history shows us. But he showed the real picture, the real purpose behind everything. So that is where I really feel the philosophy remained constant, where the philosophy talks about the Gandhian talisman, which is very simple.

Think of the weakest person you come across when you contemplate taking any step, and think how that step is going to be useful for him to gain his own swaraj. So, when I had to make my first collection, it started with the idea of how we can create something in Kerala, which helps augment the demand for handloom textiles, because people at that point in time were moving towards wearing a lot of western pieces within Kerala. I wanted to create this on a handloom overstock. The idea was to create a design, not through the lens of fashion alone, but to create something that is through the lens of utility, empowerment of people to generate more employment, and something that is environmentally more responsible. At that time, almost 20 years back, not many people knew about sustainability. But I think these three words, which came out of an NID classroom, somehow have shaped all our collections. All the collections are dynamic, the inspiration is dynamic, and the products keep evolving. But the philosophy or the vision with which the brand started remains the same.

‘Rahul Mishra’ was the first brand to get invited to Paris Art Couture Week in 2020, during COVID. How was that experience? And do you think there has been a change in perception of international buyers towards Indian haute couture since?

DM: 2020 was a hard year for the global population at large, just not fashion. All the economies were hit, and everybody was doing their best to do something that could sustain themselves and the people around them. But that was a year when we got our acceptance at the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. And it was an iconic moment. As a design student, what crosses your mind when you're in college is that you want to be at the pinnacle, [and that is] Paris Haute Couture. Rahul would say in his college, and his friends have told me this, that when people asked him what he would do later in life, he would say, ‘After 10 years, I'll be in Paris.’ And rightfully so, it manifests.

You also work towards it. So here we are at the Paris Haute Couture platform, planning, sprucing up, putting things together. It's COVID; logistics are a challenge. But because the opportunity has arrived, you can't shut the door. The show is just not about clothes. It's about music, choreography, production, setup, and managing everything. I chose to stay back here in headquarters, and Rahul and the team travelled. The show happened. It was very well received. And more than buyers, it's about the door that opened to us because that was a collection that gave us our first VVIP spotting. Zendaya wore one of the beautiful, handmade, appliqué ivory dresses sourced by Law Roch. This was a break-even point for us in terms of why we are doing a show. You have the global media, you're seen. This was a golden moment for the brand. And of course, then the buyers and HNI clients followed.

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With more Indian representation now at Paris Haute Couture Week, do you think there’s been any change in how the global fraternity perceives Indian fashion Maisons?

DM: It's about global acceptance. Indians and Asians, especially Indians, brown people can also come on the [same] platform as European [legacy] brands and houses who have been pioneers and have been the first ones to be there. But now we have a new entrance, and with the legacy of crafts and tradition, we are also there, presenting the best collections, which are globally accepted by stylists, on red carpets, and by buyers.

RM: I have this idea that your previous work defines what you have done so far in your life, defines whether you're going to be the first one to reach there or not. But what you do with the opportunity decides if you're going to be the last one to be there. I think for us, it became a far more responsible choice. We show such an exciting side of India with storytelling, that they become far more welcoming to [our] designers. Otherwise, it's a very tight calendar. Other people also got the confidence that ‘I can do it’. I remember when Gaurav [Gupta] and Saurabh, when they got in touch with us, I spent time at the studio before their first show; even when he was applying, I was trying to help him to make sure he finds a way. I think 2020 to 2030 should be the golden time for India. And I'm eyeing to see a few more brands doing ready-to-wear as well as couture from India.

Divya, you were quoted saying that each piece of ‘Rahul Mishra’ is like jewellery. What is your definition of a classic ‘Rahul Mishra’?

DM: I have found myself in situations before going for any function or event, where I'm challenged to team my Rahul Mishra outfit with something because the garment itself is a story, it’s an entire ecosystem, which you doesn’t need what to wear for jewellery, what bag to carry, what footwear, etc. The garment itself is so beautifully rich.

A classic Rahul Mishra is beautifully handwoven with resham thread embroideries on organzas. Ivory on ivory is my all-time favourite from the brand. [Each piece] is all about hand, the feel of that beautiful artisanal work, which is soft on your skin, and will not make you feel heavy by the evening, nor leave you tired or bruised.

If you had to pick up one personality who really represents the DNA of Rahul Mishra, who would this person be?

DM: The most elegant women in Indian history — Rajmata Gayatri Devi and the late Madhubala ji.

RM: Zendaya--somebody who's intelligent, private, and young.

You've been in this business for 20 years. Who are those people you've always looked up to?

DM: I'll be honest. Being a designer, the founder of a brand which is successful globally, I don't know about Rahul, but I've never looked up to a mentor or a designer. You can find a piece of inspiration in the story of an iconic house, which is non-fashion. You can also find inspiration in the humble story of Swami Vivekananda. It's a mix of everything. It's basically the derivation from inside.

What does experience in luxury truly mean as someone who runs a luxury brand?

RM: Luxury is all about a feeling, and when it allows you enough time to just be thankful, read a book, or maybe just a walk to a village, which we do a lot because we have a house in the hills now. It's the little joys, and you have the time to enjoy it.