The Art (and Instinct) of Whisky-Making: A Conversation with Dr Bill Lumsden

It started with a squirrel. As one ran across the car park that afternoon, Dr Bill Lumsden, director of whisky creation at Glenmorangie and Ardbeg, paused mid-sentence, watching it amused. “I’m a very metaphorical thinker,” he said later. “I get inspiration from all sorts of things. That little squirrel running across the car park has got me thinking about something, I’m not quite sure what that will be.”

We spent the afternoon talking about whisky and creativity – how the distillery once smelled like a coffee shop, how instinct often beats data, and why, for Dr Bill, the greatest reward is seeing someone smile over a dram he’s made.

Robb Report India (RRI): You’ve called yourself a messy thinker, but what you do is so rooted in science. How does that work?

Dr Bill Lumsden (DR BL): Science guides me, but I don’t really see what I do as purely scientific. My philosophy is more about art, craft and feeling. The biggest challenge is distilling all the ideas I have into something tangible.

RR: While you trust your gut but what happens when people tell you something else is better?

Dr BL: Ninety-five per cent of the time, my gut’s right. But if I’m taking something to market, it’s sometimes good to get a little bit of external perspective, especially if the company’s feeling a bit nervous about it.

If people are too comfortable with something, it usually means it’s safe. And if it’s safe, it’s boring. I like being uncomfortable; I like the challenge. Even if it ends badly, you look back and think, that was a good experience. You always learn something.

RR: How do you stay true to yourself while still adapting to change?

Dr BL: If you don’t stick to your philosophy, give up. Do something else. Don’t waste your time. I’d never release something that didn’t reflect me or that wasn’t good enough to carry the Glenmorangie or Ardbeg name. I’m quite traditional in some ways, so the challenge is balancing quality and innovation with heritage.

It’s not easy – a lot of what I do is instinctive; you can’t teach that. If you create by following recipes or strict science, you’ll end up with something technically fine but emotionally flat. Whisky should excite people.

RR: What excites you most about what you do?

Dr BL: Seeing someone smile when they taste my whisky. You can win all the awards in the world but the real question is, does your customer love it? That’s what matters.

RR: Any memorable moment or someone’s reaction that surprised you?

Dr BL: My first creation for Ardbeg, Ardbeg Uigeadail, is very personal. When I first made it, I used some old stock from the 1970s. That wasn’t sustainable, so I planned ahead, using younger casks I’d laid down myself. Some years later, I was at Whisky Live in Paris. A few Ardbeg Committee members, our fan club, came marching over to tell me, “Dr Bill, Uigeadail isn’t as good as it used to be.”

I said, “Have you compared the original bottling with this one?” Of course, they hadn’t. So I said, “Right, I’ll discontinue it then.” They were horrified! I told them, “Cut me some slack. I’m just trying to make the best whisky I can.”

RR: How do you see sustainability?

Dr BL: It’s one of the biggest challenges we face. If we don’t start addressing it properly now, we won’t be here in a few hundred years. We’ve made good progress, but for me, there’s a fine line. Sure, I could install heat recovery systems tomorrow but they’d affect the character of the spirit. And that’s not something I’m comfortable with. It’s about finding balance.

RR: What’s changed in the landscape of Indian whisky drinkers from your first visit to now?

Dr BL: When I first came there wasn’t much awareness of single malts. Johnnie Walker Black Label was the icon, and rightly so. Now, Indian consumers understand that there’s a whole world of Scotch out there, with different styles and personalities. People appreciate that now.

RR: What would you tell someone who’s just starting to explore whisky?

Dr BL: Start with something approachable – something with an accessible flavour. Don’t start with something too smoky or woody. Try it different ways – neat, with water, on the rocks, with soda, until you find what you like. There’s no single right way.

RR: People often perceive that whisky drinkers are a bit of a serious, exclusive clan. Your take?

Dr BL: It can be as serious or as simple as you want it to be. Some people love knowing every detail; others just want to enjoy it. At the end of the day, my philosophy is simple: does it taste good? If it doesn’t, then what’s the point?