First Take: Upstairs at Indian Accent Is What Delhi’s Nightlife Has Long Needed

Delhi’s after-dark narrative has acquired a seductive new chapter—one that begins with the gentle ascent of a staircase and the sweet notes of jazz music. Tucked above Indian Accent at The Lodhi, Upstairs is not merely a bar; it is one of the city’s rare grown-up drinking dens where martinis reign, and conversation flows without interruption.

Rohit Khattar, founder-chairman of EHV International, had long envisioned a bar that would stand apart from the rest of the city’s nightlife. Currently open only to Indian Accent regulars and by invitation, the bar plans to evolve into a members-only venue during select hours and days. Open from 6 pm to 1 am (with plans to stretch till 4 am), Upstairs is all set to redefine after-hours indulgence as one of the city’s few true late-night jazz and martini destinations.

Ambience

Upstairs brings the vision to life in a refined, intimate setting overlooking the hotel’s water body. A striking, elegant bar rises along one wall, balanced by Sabyasachi’s richly detailed wallpaper on the other. The space glows with candlelight, while resident jazz artiste Alyse Pascoe brings the room alive most evenings with her soulful, magnetic voice.

The Drinks

At Upstairs, the spotlight belongs firmly to the bar. Varun Sharma, Head of Bars at EHV International, has reversed the traditional script. Here, the drinks lead, and the food follows. Sharma’s reputation precedes him; his cocktail programmes have helped define some of India’s most celebrated dining rooms— Indian Accent, Comorin, Hosa, Fireback, and Chor Bizarre. But Upstairs marks a noteworthy evolution in his philosophy.

Cocktails lean heavily into Indian ingredients while retaining classical integrity: coconut fat-washed mezcal folded into a sol kadhi punch; an oolong tea–infused chai Manhattan perfect for winter evenings; khus and nannari fizz built on whisky, refreshingly nostalgic yet contemporary. Despite their complexity, the drinks remain balanced, restrained, and dangerously easy to sip.

But it’s the martini selection that truly takes centre stage at Upstairs. The martini trolley is the bar’s defining ritual. There are six martinis on offer, including a dry martini and a clear espresso martini made with white butter rum, coffee-infused vermouth, nannari & coconut spray, vanilla caviar, but it looks as clear as water.

A Desi Dirty Martini stirred tableside with nimbu-achaar brine sets the tone with gentle heat and the right amount of tanginess. The Konkan-style French Martini, made with kokum chambord and topped with a delicious gooseberry foam dusted with raspberry powder, is exquisite. The Bone Dry Martini, made with bone marrow–washed vodka, nihari-spiced vermouth, smoked tamarind, and paired with a lamb pathar kebab garnish, sounds unapologetically bold, something I look forward to trying on my next visit.

The Food

Designed by Chef Hitesh Lohat, the food menu at Upstairs is crafted to complement the cocktail offerings, with seasonal elements evolving every quarter. The debut edition celebrates the vibrant Markets of Delhi, capturing the city’s culinary spirit. The flower-and-green-leaf chaat draws inspiration from the bustling Gazipur flower market, while the Braised Pork Belly with timur and Sikkim’s GI-tagged dalle chilli evokes the flavours of Humayunpur. Jhol momos pay homage to Lajpat Nagar’s beloved Dolma Aunty.

The menu offers an array of refined bites, paired with signature Indian Accent kulchas, reinterpreted for this bar setting. End the evening with decadent liqueur-infused ice creams—Coorg coffee with rum and Kahlua is a standout—or indulge in the city classic, Chandni Chowk kulfi falooda kakigori.

RR Verdict

Upstairs at Indian Accent is what Delhi’s nightlife has long needed: a space for adults who appreciate restraint over revelry, martinis over mixology theatre, and soft jazz over high decibels. It is plush yet unpretentious, exclusive yet warmly inviting.