How A Japanese Chef Is Serving Indians Biryani

If one were to trace the history of biryani, its first layer was laid in Persia as biryan, meaning to fry, and Birinj for rice. Its aroma wafted into India carrying Persian and Central Asian influences. Here, it accumulated layers in the royal kitchens of the Mughal empire, as Khansamas blended Persian techniques with Indian spices.

Clearly, there is nothing Japanese about the biryani; at least until recently there wasn’t. 

In 2009, Chef Takamasa Osawa took his first bite of biryani in Coimbatore and literally tasted his calling. Back home in Tokyo, it was ‘Biryani or Die.’ He went deeper into the dish with a scientific approach, working with aroma and texture to cook that “ultimate biryani.”

Many batches later, in 2021, the 36-year-old opened Biriyani Osawa, a 20-seater restaurant that served only one dish, in Tokyo. The menu centres around mutton biryani (3000 yen or Rs. 1800 approximately). On select days, they also serve chicken, oyster, hairy crab, lobster biryani and mushroom biryanis. This year, Biriyani Osawa won a Bib Gourmand that recognises high-quality meals at affordable spots in the 2026 MICHELIN Guide Japan.

In collaboration with Conosh, Osawa took over the kitchen of Indian Accent Mumbai for a two-day pop-up serving three biryanis, which concluded on August 1.

From Tokyo To Mumbai, One Handi At A Time

After sipping a Kyoto Spritzer and digging into chef Rijul Gulati’s small bites, including momo on filo pastry and keema buns, we huddle around a centre table. One by one, Osawa brings out three handis. Cameras go up, and there is suspense in the air. The gamcha (utility towel) in his hand to handle the deg confirms he is serious about his craft. Without losing focus, he unveils the biryanis, and deftly mixes the layers. The snow-white rice layer slowly grows colour from the masala and meat below. The fragrance awakens our craving.  

We take our seats and prepare ourselves for the feast. Each serving comes in a generous portion of long-grained rice along with a choice of lamb or chicken meat; button mushroom biryani for the vegetarians.

The rice is cooked to perfection. The chicken, marinated in masala and yoghurt glisten, is equally impressing. Osawa knows his craft. The lamb biryani stands out for its succulent bite. While the chicken feels slightly dry and could do with more masala, the mushroom biryani takes a deliberate detour, offering earthy flavours. The raita on the side has an intentional higher salt finish with lemon and onion relish. It adds a creamy and savoury lift to the bite. The lamb wins our vote. Osawa later tells us the trick is to slow cook the lamb in oil to give it a juicy texture and absorb the masalas. We do miss the crunch of birista, skipped in each biryani. 

Osawa’s journey started in India and since then he’s cooked in the country for private occasions. Early this year he cooked for a private party at RRR’s actor Ram Charan’s home in Jubilee Hills in Hyderabad.

After dinner, we caught up with Osawa. “I was really nervous cooking for an all-Indian crowd. Most of my customers back home are Japanese. But you’ll have eaten a lot of biryanis in your lifetime,” he smiles, adding, “I don’t like the biryani to be very oily or salty. It will be delicious on the first bite, then it becomes inedible. My aim is to make a balanced biryani you can enjoy till the last bite.”  

Apart from biryani, Osawa’s next food craving is sushi. “Sushi is made with rice, protein, soy sauce and wasabi. Just like a balanced biryani,” he tells us.

When Biryani Played Cupid

On all his pop-up tours, he is joined by his wife, Mizuki Hayashi. Four years ago, it was biryani that played cupid to get them together, when she walked into the restaurant. "I fell in love with his biryani first,” she blushes. She has learnt the dish too, but chooses to let Osawa do the cooking. “I don't really want to cook for him. Because he will judge my biryani,” says Hayashi, who is based in Singapore. The couple meets over biryani pop-ups across the globe. “It's one long extended honeymoon,” the duo blushes.  

India will next see Osawa in October. “I want to bring my staff to India to learn authentic biryani,” Osawa signs off.

RR Verdict

Biryani for most Indians is an indulgence of all five senses. The fragrance that invites you into the meal, the sight of the hearty serving of layers, the crunch of the birista, the use of hands that makes every morsel one big taste bomb. As such, we are bound to compare it with our domestic biryanis.

Chef Takamasa Osawa’s biryani spread was unique in its experience. Osawa’s success lies in the scientific approach to ingredients — the masalas landing as a long-lasting flavour balance till the last bite and that rice texture we are going to dream of. Meat cooked to perfection, the ingredients treated with respect, the ‘outsider’ perspective made it an enjoyable meal. The biryani was different, but upheld the seasoned nuance of familiarity.