The Mahalaxmi Race Course and its historic mud tracks are no strangers to new restaurants and bars. Yet, stepping into Fielia feels less like visiting a new opening and more like discovering a secret that has been decades in the making.
The Space
Fielia, the brainchild of Afsana Verma, Amit Verma, and Dhaval Udeshi, is brought to life through the design language of Gauri Khan. The layout is unapologetically theatrical. Warm amber lights from vintage-style fringed lamps, crystal chandeliers, and rich burgundy leather Chesterfields evoke a sense of old-world glamour.
Khan’s touch is evident in the clever juxtaposition of the industrial and the ornate. Exposed copper-toned ducting runs parallel to delicate crystal glasswork, while Persian-inspired rugs add a layer of warmth to the dark, polished surfaces. A wrought-iron staircase wraps around the ground floor, leading to a mezzanine that resembles a dress circle. From these elevated seats, guests can peer down at the bar where the night’s plot unfolds.
Beverages
At the heart of this theatre is beverage director Fay Barretto’s cocktail programme. The concoctions are built as sensory interpretations of the world’s most notorious headlines, political entanglements, stolen jewels, and whispered affairs. Each drink is built around props, illusions, and subtle cues, so the cocktail experience begins long before the first sip.
The cocktail Forbidden, for instance, arrives as a dual experience - a hot and a cold component served together, requiring you to sip both simultaneously to achieve the intended balance. In Stolen Light, a delicate concoction of spiced vodka, elderflower liqueur, and sparkling wine, a cacao butter ice cube carved into a gemstone slowly melts to add a creamy, botanical depth to the drink.
The presentation is unapologetically playful, leaning into noir and pop-culture tropes. Quiet Exposure, a whisky-based cocktail, is served inside a customised camera shutter, a nod to the prying eyes of the paparazzi, while the OJ Simpson arrives with a black glove draped over the glass - a provocative, tongue-in-cheek reference to the trial of the century. Each drink is finished with a fragrant mist, adding to the experience. The cocktail programme, according to Barretto, will evolve every few months to explore a new overarching theme, ensuring the narrative stays as fresh as the ingredients.
The Food
The kitchen, helmed by chef Hitesh Shanbhag, provides a culinary counterpoint that is equally evocative. Drawing on his experience in Michelin-starred New York kitchens, Shanbhag has crafted an aperitivo-style menu that explores the seven deadly sins through texture and taste. A standout is the pork belly, which undergoes a two-day brining process for that delicate, melting consistency. It is finished with a smear of house-made barbecue sauce and apple relish.
For those seeking heat, the ginger-laced prawns offer a fiery kick, while the gnocchi prepared aglio e olio style, topped with parmesan drizzle, provides a comforting alternative. If you are looking to end the evening on a sweet note (other than what is in your glass), the dolce pinsa is apt. This Roman cousin of the traditional Italian pizza is topped with a rich hazelnut paste for a nutty finish. These dishes are not designed to compete with the bar but to play along.
Beyond its status as an invite-only bar, Fielia is also designed to be a supper theatre. “The idea is to invite some of the country’s most renowned chefs to bring their culinary narratives to life. The meal will be designed like a performance, blending storytelling with gastronomy, and every guest will enjoy a front-row seat to the drama,” explains co-founder Dhaval Udeshi.
RR Verdict
In a city where new concepts arrive at a dizzying pace, Fielia offers front-row seats to a different kind of performance. One where high-end mixology and thoughtful sharing plates are stitched together with a dose of storytelling. Just remember: the curtains rise only for those on the list.
Note: The bar operates on an invite-only basis. While dining is available through reservations, weekends are curated exclusively for guests.
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