Jhol’s Chef Shreesha Rao Brings His Boundary-Blurring Cuisine to India

For two evenings, Delhi will get a taste of Bangkok’s celebrated coastal restaurant Jhol, as Chef De Cuisine Shreesha Rao brings the award-winning kitchen to Diya, The Leela Ambience Gurugram Hotel for a specially curated pop-up. Jhol has earned numerous international accolades over the years, including consecutive recognition in the Michelin Guide from 2023 to 2026. Known for its nuanced exploration of India’s shoreline, Jhol’s menu traverses nine coastal states and one Union Territory, weaving together flavours from Gujarat and the Konkan coast to Tamil Nadu, Odisha and West Bengal through a refined seven-course tasting experience. Paired with Diya’s Indian-inspired cocktails, the collaboration promises a deeply layered journey through regional cuisine—one that balances technical precision with instinctive warmth.

In conversation, Chef Rao reflects on the dishes that still anchor him, the growing global appetite for Indian food, and his evolving approach to ingredient-led cooking.

Robb Report India: You’ve had such a long, illustrious career in the world of food. How has your style of cooking evolved during this time?

Chef Shreesha Rao (SR): It has honestly been a rollercoaster journey for me. When I first started my career, I actually wanted to become a pastry chef and baker. But over time, I found myself becoming much more drawn towards hot kitchen cooking and the creative energy around it. As gastronomy and global culinary trends evolved, I became deeply interested in exploring them one step at a time. Every kitchen, culture, and experience shaped my perspective, and today my cooking reflects that evolution, rooted in tradition but constantly open to innovation and discovery.

RR: How do you think the Indian diner is evolving, especially in the space of luxury dining?

SR: It’s very exciting to witness—Indian diners today are far more curious and open to immersive luxury dining experiences than they were even five or ten years ago. There is a growing appreciation for chef’s tasting menus, storytelling through food, ingredient-driven cooking, and curated experiences. People are no longer dining just to eat; they want to feel connected to the cuisine and the philosophy behind it. The growth of this space has been incredibly rapid, almost like a high-speed rail moving forward.

RR: In your years working overseas, has the gap bridged between authentic Indian food and what global diners seek?

SR: Absolutely. Global audiences today are far more interested in experiencing authentic Indian cuisine beyond the usual expectations. What’s particularly exciting is the growing appreciation for regional Indian food—whether it’s South Indian cuisine, coastal cooking, or hyper-local traditions from different states. Diners want deeper cultural experiences now. They are genuinely curious about the diversity of India’s culinary identity, and that has opened doors for Indian cuisine to evolve globally in a very meaningful way.

RR: You are known for your take on modern Indian food. What is your interpretation of ‘modern Indian food’?

SR: For me, modern Indian food is about preserving originality while innovating with respect. It’s not about changing the soul of the cuisine; it’s about presenting it through modern techniques, refined plating, and contemporary thought while still staying true to its cultural roots. Every dish should carry meaning and honesty. What we present on the plate must do justice to the cuisine, the ingredient, and the story behind it. That balance between authenticity and innovation is what defines modern Indian food for me.

RR: Tell us about a dish that you’ve created for Jhol that characterises your cooking style and encapsulates your food philosophy.

SR: One dish that truly represents my cooking philosophy is a lobster preparation inspired by the coastal belt I come from. During my travels through Kerala, especially around Kottayam and the backwaters, I was deeply fascinated by the local culture and rustic style of cooking. The dish is cooked over wood fire, which gives it a distinct smokiness and aroma. It captures everything I love about food—strong regional identity, simplicity, fire, flavour, and emotion. That connection between memory, place, and technique is something I always try to bring into my cooking.

RR: Is storytelling an important part of a culinary experience? Or do you think it is being overdone these days?

SR: I think storytelling is important—but only when it comes from a genuine place. Sometimes it can feel overdone, especially when the story exists only for presentation and not within the food itself. For me, storytelling should have meaning and purpose. The experience, the flavours, and the intention behind the dish should naturally support the story being told. Otherwise, it loses authenticity.

RRI: There was a time when molecular gastronomy was at the core of modern Indian cooking. But now there seems to be a trend of going back to traditional flavours and techniques. If you still incorporate molecular gastronomy currently, how has it changed over the years?

SR: I don’t think the essence of it has changed too much—only the way people approach it. Earlier, molecular gastronomy was more visible and heavily identified by its techniques. Today, chefs are more subtle with it. Interestingly, Indian cooking has always had its own form of gastronomy through traditional techniques, fermentation, smoking, preservation, and layered cooking methods passed down through generations. Modern kitchens are simply interpreting those traditional ideas through a contemporary lens now, rather than focusing only on the label of “molecular gastronomy.”

RR: What can we expect at the pop-up at The Leela Ambience Gurugram?

SR: The idea behind bringing Jhol to Diya, at The Leela Ambience Gurugram, is to present our interpretation of regional Indian cuisine through a more progressive and refined lens. At Jhol, every dish carries influences from India’s coastal landscapes, local traditions and deeply rooted food memories, but expressed with contemporary technique and a strong sense of individuality. Diya felt like a natural extension of this philosophy. The restaurant has consistently celebrated the depth and diversity of Indian cuisine while creating experiences that feel elevated yet deeply connected to their origins. There is a shared respect for regional storytelling, craftsmanship and authenticity, which made this collaboration especially meaningful. More than a showcase, we wanted guests to experience a dialogue between two culinary perspectives that honour Indian cuisine in a way that feels immersive, thoughtful and memorable.

RR: Advice to young Indian chefs who are seeking global recognition?

SR: Never stop learning. Cooking is an ocean—the deeper you go, the more you realise how much there is still to discover. Working in big restaurants or with renowned chefs for six months or a year does not mean the learning is complete. Stay humble, stay curious, travel, observe, and keep evolving every single day. Growth in this industry comes from consistency, patience, and the willingness to continuously learn