Ever wondered how your favourite diamonds looked before machinery began cutting them into uniform shapes? Well, the secret is Polki, an ancient form of jewellery that is almost 2,500 years old, eventually becoming a hallmark of the Mughal Empire’s royal courts. Centred around natural, uncut diamonds that aren’t chemically polished and retain their raw, jagged forms. With an intention to showcase the stone’s pure, earth-born state, Polki was traditionally set in a 24-carat gold foil using the jadau technique to enhance its depth and brilliance. Cut to today, the jewellery piece remains a prized heirloom choice and a bride’s favourite.
In simple words, Polki is a diamond in its purest, and most ancient form, with no chemical or physical treatment. In contrast to the lab-grown diamonds that are faceted for maximum polish, polki stones are mined from the earth and are used in their raw state, retaining their original contours and character. This is why you’ll never find two similar-looking polkis. It’s because of them being in their purest form that they are so expensive.
While all authentic polkis consist of natural, uncut diamonds, they are universally categorised by their origin, quality, and the chemical treatments they may have undergone.
Syndicate polki is considered the gold standard and is sourced from premium mines. These polkis are known for their exceptional transparency, hence making it a go-to choice for heirloom bridal sets, because they lack the heavy cloudiness that is usually found in lower grades.
Whereas, Zimbabwe polkis are a rare, high-quality variety prized for its unique, rustic character, and solid density. For something more accessible, Kilwas polkis can be ideal. These are often used in contemporary and budget-friendly designs, and feature a flatter bottom and dome-shaped top.
The Kilwas polkis come in two forms, one being filling kalwas, i.e., coated with a chemical layer to hide impurities, and non-filling Kilwas are left in their natural, slightly darker state.
Polkis are also visually categorised on the basis of their colour and clarity, as they don’t follow the standard “4C” grading used for polished tones. For those on a budget, Lightly Cream (LC) polki offer a warm, yellowish tint, while Lightly Black (LB) polki features darker natural inclusions and is frequently paired with open-setting jewellery to mask its deeper colour.
For those looking for more brilliance, English polki gives a more defined look with extra facets to catch the light, while Rose-Cut Diamonds are the most polished variation, typically featuring around 24 facets in precise shapes including pear and round for a more antique-led look.
The setting style of polki significantly defines its character and value. Jadau, the most traditional method where diamonds are embedded in a golden foil base (Kundan) along with a lac core, often features a Meenakari work on the other side.
Vilandi is a modern technique where the back of the diamond is left open to let light pass through, making the piece lighter and the stone appear more transparent. For a seamless appearance, a Takkar Setting is a style where polkis are arranged edge-to-edge without any metal packing between them.
Non-authentic variations include Kundan polki, which uses glass or synthetic stones to mimic the same style at a lower price, and Thappa polki, a mass-produced imitation typically constructed with silver or wax bases instead of solid gold.
It is extremely important to preserve the beauty of polki jewellery to protect it from moisture, chemicals, and physical friction. Wondering what the right way is? Here’s a step-by-step guide:
After each wear, gently wipe the jewellery piece with a soft lint-free microfiber cloth to remove oils and perspiration, as they can dull the sparkle over time.
Avoid exposing polkis to water, soaps, or detergents, as moisture can seep into traditional jadau settings and ruin the gold foil or natural lac core.
In terms of storage, each piece should be kept separately in a soft-lined pouch or compartmented box to prevent scratches from other items. To each bag/box, adding a small silica gel packet can further help defeat humidity.
Always follow the “last on, first off” rule. Apply makeup, perfumes, and lotions before putting on your jewellery to minimise chemical contact.
Lastly, have the pieces professionally inspected annually by experts to ensure that the settings remain secure.