As a fierce champion of the rejuvenating power of spa treatments, I’ve been through this routine a thousand times: disrobe, lie face down, and wait for the massage therapist to work their magic. The moment I put my head down, though, I gasp! The sea appears to lie right below me. But how? I’m high up on a cliff, and there’s a wooden floor under the massage table I’m lying on. As it turns out, the clever folks at Nihioka have propped up a mirror at the right angle under the table, so that the mesmeric dance of the waves is reflected each time I open my eyes. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen at a spa. But then, hidden in the midst of swaying coconut trees and glittering paddy fields, Nihioka is unlike any other conventional spa.
Located a 15-minute drive away from luxury resort Nihi is their sprawling, open-air wellness space, Nihioka Spa, that is pushing the boundaries of what healing with nature means. To reach, I have the option of a comfortable, two-hour hike through rolling hills and villages, but the morning sun is already beating down, and so I choose the quicker, open-safari jeep ride instead. The sign out front reads: ‘Be Wild, Be Free, Be Well.’ The slogan seems like a natural extension of Nihi’s overall theme: “the edge of wildness”— apt given the resort’s location in Sumba, the under-the-radar island in Indonesia, an hour’s flight from Bali. Despite its manicured lawns and landscapes, the resort continues to reflect the island’s raw, unspoiled beauty.
After a warm welcome, the spa manager takes me through the therapies on offer. For this half-day spa safari experience, I can choose up to six different treatments for a total of 2.5 hours of pure indulgence. I eventually opt for a body scrub, as well as a head and body massage. For sheer novelty value, I add a reflexology foot massage that is described as an equine therapy session. Research has shown that horses, similar to dogs and dolphins, are keenly tuned into human emotions and can provide emotional support and mental health benefits. Nihi has begun experimenting with this as part of their Equine-Wellness sessions. But more on that later.
Time now for the ‘spampering’ to begin. I follow my therapist past the six balés or Balinese-style private pavilions at a discreet distance from the main lobby, as well as from each other to ensure complete privacy and solitude for each guest. We walk up towards a solitary villa perched at the very top of the estate: Villa Rahasia or Secret Villa—perfect for those seeking to amplify the feeling of privacy and romance during their stay. The one-bedroom villa—the only one within Nihioka—comes with its own porch, plunge pool, and private access to the beach, plus an al fresco couples’ treatment space overlooking the ocean.
My session begins with the Sumbanese Lulur Exfoliation, a mild scrub made with green tea, turmeric, and rice powder mixed with yoghurt. Then comes the Nihi Freedom Massage, a therapeutic treatment with long, sweeping strokes that sends me into a blissful stupor. The sea provides a steady soundscape to my session: the waves now a caressing murmur, then a crashing symphony.
At the end of the two-hour session, when my massage therapist has to nudge me awake, I find myself barely able to open my eyes. In this semi-somnolent state, I float down to the gazebo for my foot reflexology massage to find Hannah—my equine partner— waiting for me. At 30, Hannah is the grand dame of Nihioka that also dubs itself an equine sanctuary, where older horses have been sent to “enjoy their retirement,” in the team’s words.
Hannah is sweet, patient, and slightly needy (which matches my vibe), nuzzling my face every now and then, wanting to know why I’ve stopped stroking her neck. Her steady breathing coupled with the gentle ocean breeze makes my heartbeat slower and my breath calmer. In her dignified and calming presence, I find the last of my knots—both physical and emotional—begin to loosen. I come away impressed with the way a regular hotel spa experience has been elevated into a sublime respite for world-weary travellers like me.
The price of the Spa Safari experience begins from $465 (approx. INR 42,000 per person).
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