Inside the Eight-Day Drive to the Everest North Base Camp Via the Tibetan Plateau

From the time I read a book that introduced me to the story of [George] Mallory and [Andrew] Irvine—the two brave men whose attempt to scale Everest ended on a mysterious and, eventually, tragic note—I was obsessed. For years, I nursed the desire to climb Everest, and was particularly magnetised by the Khumbu Icefall, one of the deadliest parts of the ascent on the south side of the mountain located in Nepal. I continued to read as much as I could on the subject, as I knew my desire to scale the mountain could well turn into a death wish. Softened by city life, I wasn’t sure if I would be able to weather the arduous 15-day trek to base camp, in spite of being a trekker.

I caught my first glimpse of Everest from a plane on my way to Bhutan. Elated—I took a picture of it from my phone. But as the years rolled by, the idea of scaling the mountain grew fainter. The thought of trekking for two weeks through treacherous passes and narrow ridges, crossing rivers that could flood on a whim, braving the dysentery and the hacking cough that almost everyone who sets off from Nepal to reach the South Base Camp must endure, made it seem increasingly intimidating. So, I folded up my dream of seeing the mountain up close.

But then I learnt of an alternative route that required traversing the Tibetan plateau over eight days and was accessible via road, leading to the North Base Camp. Nothing could stop me now. I recruited a younger colleague from my journalism days, whose partner also joined us—that both are professional photographers was a bonus—and began planning our expedition.
Keep in mind that you will need both a Chinese visa and a Tibet Travel Permit, issued by the Tibet Tourism Bureau, to get to North Base Camp. Most travel agents and tour operators should be able to help with this.

Here We Go

We flew into Beijing, China. Once there, you can catch a flight to Lhasa, the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). Another option is to fly from Beijing to Xining, the capital city of Qinghai Province, and then board a train to Lhasa.

Determined to squeeze every drop of excitement from our trip, we opted for the slower route and caught a train from Beijing to Lhasa via Xining. The idea was to experience riding on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, the highest railway line in the world.

We’re informed that it’s natural to feel queasy as the train gains altitude, reaching a maximum height of 5,231 meters (approx. 17,160 ft) above sea level while crossing the Tanggula Pass, and descending to 3,656 metres (approx. 12,000 ft) on reaching its destination. To help combat altitude sickness, trains are equipped with an oxygen supply system and oxygen masks for passengers. A few drags of oxygen should settle any headaches and help ease the sensation of an imaginary fist clenching and unclenching in one’s stomach. One cubicle can accommodate up to four people. The soft beds could not be more comfortable. Food can be bought on the train.

We watch as the colours of the landscape change to greys and browns. The dune-like mountains acquire a ghostly appearance in the early hours as mist clings to them. As the day gets brighter, discernible shapes start to emerge. The stark beauty is similar to what Ladakh offers, but without the bands of vibrant colour.

Inside the ‘Forbidden City’

Lhasa is now a bustling city with uniform houses, intersected by broad streets where SUVs and luxury cars stop at pedestrian crossings to allow tourists to cross—a far cry from the “forbidden city” that readers of Seven Years in Tibet by Heinrich Harrer might have imagined.

We spend a wonderful evening getting to know the rest of our travel group over the welcome dinner organised in a fancy hotel by our tour operators. The hors d’oeuvres included the traditional Tibetan specialty of air-dried yak meat, as well as puff pastry bites topped with caviar. The buffet table groaned under the weight of a variety of gourmet dishes. By the time we’re ready to head back to our hotel, I’m not sure if the headiness I’m feeling is courtesy the champagne or the excitement of finally being on what promises to be the trip of a lifetime.

The following morning, we attempt to grasp at the Lhasa magic wafting through the impressive structures of the Drepung and Sera monasteries with their rich stories. At night, parts of Lhasa appear to slip back into the past.

The next day of our sight-seeing tour has us head to the Potala Palace that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and serves as a museum today. Sensible walking shoes help with making our way up the series of steep staircases to reach the palace entrance. After navigating our way up and down the many staircases, and to and from the palace, the rest of our trip feels like a walk in the park. A walk down Barkhor with its festooned shops selling crafts, art objects, and jewellery, and eateries lining either side of the street, offers glimpses of an earlier time. Exquisite thangka paintings exploring themes around Buddhist philosophy can be bought here. No two thangkas are identical, and prices for each of these artworks—often detailed with 24-carat gold for both artistic and spiritual purposes— can go up to $50,000 (approx. I44 lakhs). Barkhor Street surrounds the historic Jokhang Temple that was built around 640 AD by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo. The temple is an interesting blend of Tibetan, Nepalese, and Indian architecture.

The days we spend sightseeing in Lhasa help us acclimatise, ensuring that we are set for the journey ahead. We travel in a minibus with 12 others who hail from all over the world including England, Germany, Singapore, Australia, and—to our pleasant surprise— Kerala. The four-star hotels we stay in have rooms the size of a cricket pitch, so I suppose the five-star hotel rooms will be roomy enough for a round of mini golf. We coast along the China-Nepal Friendship Highway, a section of Route G318, connecting Lhasa with the Chinese/ Nepalese border town of Zanghmu. We catch views of sparkling lakes, though clouds deny us a panoramic view of the mountain ranges. Ten hours later, we stop for the night at Shigatse, the second largest city in TAR.

On the suggestion of our guide, we signed up for a meal with a farmer household to eat food typical to the region. Feeling like gourmets on a tasting expedition, we sample the meat-rich dishes served with rice and spice-coated potatoes, followed by cups of Tibetan butter tea.

On the last leg of the drive, we enter the protected environs of the Qomolangma National Nature Preserve. We weave through jagged hills, navigating sharp hairpin bends that allow us glimpses of the snowcapped peaks of the Himalayan range. At some point, we are bundled into an e-bus and trundle past construction sites to the rarified space where the mountain stands supreme. We check into our dorm-style room at the Rongbuk Monastery Guesthouse that is the only accommodation option available throughout the year, including the winter months that run from late November to April. Double-occupancy rooms with attached bathrooms are also available. The guesthouse is at a height of 5,150 metres (approx. 16,900 ft). Oxygen is pumped into the heated rooms and we immediately want to dive under the soft duvets. At sub-zero degrees, there is no question of having a bath.

We drop our bags in the room and walk the half kilometre stretch to get as close to the North Face as permitted. For those who dare to brave the cold—we were battling -4 degree Celsius and 25 km/hr winds that cut a sharp swath as they swept down from impressive heights—views of the sunset offer unforgettable memories. My photographer companions pay for their haul of photos by sniffling throughout the night.

The food options are many. Black coffee, tea, fried local breads, meats of obscure origin, and potatoes prepare us for the day ahead. By 9 am, the following day, a few are ready to head back, driving to Lhasa from where they fly out—homewards or on to their next adventure. We ride our minibus to Nepal and wend our way to Kathmandu to fly back home. I return with two keepsakes from my trip: A thangka locket and the image I took of the North Face of the mountain that has replaced the blurred one I had taken from the sky all those years ago. I might still someday trek through Nepal to the South Base Camp before I turn 90, because once, as they say, is not enough!

Good to Know

Helicopter rides allow for stunning views near Everest’s South Face. Air tours can range from $1,500 (INR 1.3 lakhs) to $6,000 (INR 5.3 lakhs) and above, depending on the group size, landing stops, additional services, and tour operator. A ride can last anywhere from four to five hours.

On Top of the World

Stay Options: St Regis Lhasa Resort ; Shangri-La Hotel ; Intercontinental Lhasa Paradise ; Hilton Shigatse