Thotalagala: Where the Rich & Famous Check-in When in Sri Lanka

You may spot a celebrity or A-lister here, checked in for some downtime. Though the staff is tight-lipped about the rich and famous who have visited the property, I hear it’s one of the most exclusive and sought-after properties in the country – thanks to its unique location and colonial-style service. Alexander McCall Smith, Scottish author of the popular No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency series, former Prime Minister of Sri Lanka, Chandrika Bandaranaike, and former Sri Lankan cricketer Kumar Sangakkara are among its past guests.  

I arrive to a steaming cup of hot chocolate topped with marshmallows and cream and feel transported to a quaint part of England. Dotted with colonial bungalows and misty hills, quite fittingly, this part of Sri Lanka is called ‘Little England’.

Check in: Thotalagala, Sri Lanka

Thotalagala, a beautifully restored 19th-century planter’s colonial bungalow, now a boutique hotel with seven suites, is in south-eastern Sri Lanka, near the town of Haputale. 

This charming property, belonging to Island Life Sri Lanka, who also own other iconic properties like the Galle Fort Hotel and the Warden’s House, consists of three interconnected single-storey villas with green roofs, set within 20 acres of lush gardens and grass, and lies high above the plains on Pitaratmalie Estate. From the hotel's infinity pool, I can gaze down upon a panoramic view of the emerald green valley, hills, and surrounding countryside. This is indeed tea country, where Sir Thomas Lipton, one of the most iconic figures in the history of tea, planted these slopes with tea and brought it to Britain’s working classes.

Thotalagala was meticulously restored over two years by owner Amrit Rajaratnam and Sri Lankan interior decorator Eranga Tennekoon. With original Burma teak panelling, period furniture, fireplaces, vintage rooms adorned with artwork, and a teak-panelled cigar room, the property feels like a step back in time and exudes an old-world charm. 

The main lounge is cosy with comfy sofas and stacks of books. Each suite is uniquely decorated and named after famous notable figures who shaped the tea-growing region's history, from Sam Popham to George Pilkington. The property is dotted with artwork, photographs, vintage memorabilia, and artefacts from a sepia past.

My room was named after James Taylor, who introduced tea farming in Ceylon, and was elegantly furnished in shades of white and yellow with a floral theme and a study table. The large bathroom, with its black and white chequered tiles, boasted a freestanding bathtub and Spa Ceylon toiletries.

Savouring Sri Lanka

Days started with elaborate breakfasts served al fresco, featuring freshly baked bread, eggs, Sri Lankan hoppers, and fruits. Butlers served tea on request, and curated menus for lunch and dinner. The meals were delicious, offering a mix of Western and local Sri Lankan cuisine from bacon tarts to Sri Lankan salad bowls. Classic British-style high teas were served on request, complete with buttery raisin scones, sandwiches, lentil vadais, mini polo buns, cakes, and fragrant Ceylon tea.

Come evening, wine flowed freely, and candlelit tables beckoned. Sitting on cream-coloured sofas in the main lounge, Clare Holman, the attentive manager and hostess of the property, originally from Zimbabwe, regaled us with stories from her fascinating life spent across the world. Hot water bags were provided at night, and in winter, one could enjoy bonfires and fireplaces. Dining options included the communal 20-seater dining table or private meals.

One morning, we took a hike through the villages and tea gardens, spotting birds and meeting tea workers. Another day, we took a tuk-tuk ride past winding hills, terraced electric green tea gardens, tea weighing stations, and panoramic views at every turn, to Lipton’s Seat, located on the crest of a ridge, 1,970 metres above sea level, from where one could view five provinces of Sri Lanka on a clear day. 

A cooking class on the lawns, guided by talented Chef Lakshantha, introduced us to the intricacies of Sri Lankan cooking. Using local ingredients and spices like Sri Lankan curry powder, we chopped vegetables, stirred onion slices in mud pots until they turned translucent, and added coconut milk and spices to create a delicious vegetable curry. We also learned to make a coconut sambol with chillies and a creamy dhal curry.

Naturalist Madhu introduced me to local flora and fauna as I walked through paths within the property and the ferny glade with dappled sunlight. I encountered a lotus pond, a towering flame of the forest, kithul palm trees, spotted butterflies, monkeys, birds, and even water snakes.

At Thotalagala, I found the peace I was longing for — no surprise that it is a go-to for the elite.