Sustainability is a Guiding Principle at this Adults-only Private Island Off Singapore

Barefoot luxury is the overarching theme at Cempedak, a private Indonesian island just under three hours from Singapore. To get there, I take an hour-long ferry ride from Singapore to Bintan, followed by an hour’s drive to the resort’s private jetty, from where a speedboat whisks me to Cempedak in under half an hour.

If I had any doubts about the time and effort it takes, they are laid to rest the minute the island comes into view, the villas with their rounded thatched roofs laid in a row along the curve of the beach. Made almost entirely of local bamboo and wood, the villas are naturally ventilated, with just a ceiling fan for those rare times the sea breeze decides to take a break.

My villa is set on an elevated spot slightly away from the beach, but has splendid views of the aquamarine waters sprinkled with dozens of tiny islands. And like everywhere else on the island, the lines between the indoors and outdoors are blurry, even non-existent here. The lower level has a sitting lounge that flows out onto the open deck with an infinity pool, and a curved staircase leads up to the spacious sleeping area with a gorgeous four-poster bed and more seating overlooking the ocean. The silence is near complete, and I fall asleep to the relentless hum of the cicadas lurking in the wilderness.

With just 20 villas spread across 17 hectares, and open only to guests above 15 years of age, Cempedak is all about stepping back from the chaos of the real world. There is no television, and the internet connection is as moody as the island's weather. But I am not complaining; guided walks, snorkeling, and indulgent spa treatments fill my time on this enchanting island. There are also other land and sea activities like hiking, tennis, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding for those inclined to be physically active even on vacation.

The food is a highlight at Cempedak, with changing daily menus based on seasonal and local ingredients sourced mainly from their own farm in Bintan. Lunch and dinner menus are written out on a chalkboard in advance, and can be tailored to your dietary preferences. As a vegetarian, I get to try plant-based rendang (with tempeh instead of beef), succulent jackfruit curry, and spicy sambals as part of an Indonesian lunch platter. And at dinner, one of the nights, I eschew Asian flavours to give in to an unexpected pasta craving. But more than the top-notch food, it’s the smiling staff who make meals memorable. Most of them are locals from nearby islands and longtime employees who seem to love working here.

Apart from the main restaurant with its tiny bar area operating through the day, there is the Dodo Bar, which stays open from evening “until the last customer leaves” (as manager Jimmy puts it). It is at this open-air bar that I witness my first Cempedak sunset, a spectacular affair of pinks, oranges, and reds. I head back there for a post-dinner drink, which I think is the perfect way to end a day here.

My favourite thing about Cempedak, though, is how everything comes with a conscience – from painstaking waste segregation to coral conservation and regeneration, sustainability is not just a buzzword here but a guiding principle. The owners have also set up the Island Foundation, which supports education for children from local communities with a network of libraries and learning centres. Not surprisingly, Cempedak is also a member of The Long Run, a global network of hospitality brands invested in responsible and sustainable tourism.

When I finally check out after a relaxing stay at Cempedak, several members of the hospitality team line up at the jetty to wave goodbye. It feels like leaving a friend’s home.