A Hundred Years of Art Deco, Rediscovered Through India’s Cultural and Regional Sensibilities

In the wake of World War I, ornate excesses of the Edwardian era gave way to a new spirit that was linear and streamlined. With societal shifts and modernity beckoning, Art Deco was born in the ’20s and christened at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. This year marks the centennial of one of the most flamboyant architectural and design styles that altered how one thinks about ornamentation, luxury, and regularity of surface, line, and volume. Its inherent DNA was unapologetically ostentatious: geometric symmetry, stepped forms, chevrons, zigzags, and trapezoids.

Beyond seaside promenades in Miami or Mumbai’s skyline, Art Deco also found its resonance in jewellery. Maisons like Van Cleef & Arpels, René Boivin, and Raymond Templier collaborated with artisans and architects to reimagine jewellery’s form, function and fluidity, creating pieces that married geometric patterns, clean lines, bold contrasts, and dazzling colours. Cartier was at the helm, introducing the iconic Tank timepiece and the vibrant, India-inspired Tutti Frutti high jewellery collection. In the early 20th century, jewellers adopted new stylistic expressions and nature-inspired motifs, drawing inspiration from Egyptian and Asian cultures.

Closer home, the movement arrived as an influence that cross-pollinated with indigenous craft traditions. The Indian instinct for adornment, storytelling, and vibrant craftsmanship aligned with the aesthetic’s mathematical clarity. Think kundan and polki settings taking on a new language when combined with staggered edges to make up wedding-forward haars and chokers, enamel handiwork like meenakari infused with sunburst motifs, and heirloom-worthy chandbalis and jhumkas. Or gemstones sourced from local mines gleaming brighter when carved with architectural precision for shoulder-dusters, rings, and necklaces.

Today, the exploration of Art Deco jewellery in the sub-continent is a palpitating influence, even 100 years on, permeating across collections and defiantly inspiring makers to experiment with materials, designers to reinterpret motifs through native narratives, and creators to incorporate innovation with time-honoured techniques. With names like Renu Oberoi, Tholia’s Kuber, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas, and The House of Rose among many others leading the way, it continues to bridge the past and present, uphold heritage, and embrace the future.

Go For Gold by Amaris

Amaris’s Go for Gold Necklace reimagines Art Deco glamour through interwoven gold links adorned with 14 carats of diamonds. Bold, sculptural curves juxtapose with pavé brilliance in a design that captures the era’s theatrical spirit. This statement piece transforms geometric fluidity into wearable drama.

Earrings by Renu Oberoi Luxury Jewellery

These ornate earrings place pearshaped Mozambique rubies at the centre. The gemstones’ rich crimson hue is offset with rose-cut and full-cut diamonds. The geometric design harks Art Deco’s architectural precision, thanks to angular facets and rare gems.

Earrings by Hazoorilal

Legacy These statement earrings echo vintage allure through geometric grace. Set in 18-carat white gold, the chandelier silhouette features pear-shaped yellow morganites and is framed by natural diamonds rendered as floral motifs. Each curve and contour nods to the architectural elegance of the Roaring Twenties.

Eternal Bloom Brooch by Jewel Saga

Jewel Saga’s Eternal Bloom Brooch transforms Art Deco charm into a wearable garden. Turquoise enamel petals unfold alongside 1.72 carats of natural diamonds including rose-cut stones along with pink sapphires. Handcrafted in 18-carat gold with pink tourmaline buds, this convertible piece channels the era’s decorative exuberance with botanical grace.

Bracelet by The House of Rose

This bracelet from The House Of Rose’ Opera outing unleashes a colour riot and geometrical exuberance. A magnificent 12.81-carat pear emerald commands attention amid cascading pink tourmaline tumbles (124.91 carats across 50 beads) and emerald beads. Natural diamonds frame this chromatic celebration.

Necklace by Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, courtesy The Natural Diamond Council

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, courtesy The Natural Diamond Council, orchestrates a bold colour symphony in this Art Deco-inspired necklace, where Zambian emeralds contrast dramatically with black onyx and lustrous saltwater pearls. Mitchell-cut diamonds, baguettes, and round brilliants totalling over 100 grammes in 18-carat gold create geometric intrigue. Channel and prong settings amplify the interplay between verdant depth and monochrome elegance.