Tarun Tahiliani is one of India’s foremost fashion designers, known for blending traditional Indian textiles and techniques with contemporary silhouettes. After studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York, he co-founded Ensemble, one of India’s first multi-designer boutiques, in 1987. In the ’90s, he launched his eponymous label renowned for bridal couture, luxurious draping, and intricate embroideries. His designs are known for their craftsmanship and structure, creating a modern, global aesthetic that retains a deep connection to Indian heritage.
What was the turning point for the Indian karigar?
I would say in the 2000s [when] people started getting educated about different kinds of Indian craft. The media also played a big role. Global interest emerged, and Indians also took a lot of cues. I think the press was amazing, and there wasn’t as much noise as there is today. Things were more considered. It was not so isolationist; it was simple.
You have often said that ‘whatever endures is not loud.’ Isn’t that dichotomous with India’s ethos?
When I travel around Rajasthan or south India— and Hampi in particular— nothing is loud. I didn’t grow up in an India that was loud. It was only after the ’90s and 2000s, when new money mingled with Bollywood and stylists redefined trends that things became flashy. Vegetable dyes in bright colours and oversized jewels demanded by the nouveau riche made things loud. I think loudness is something we created. But the most beautiful aspects of India are understated.
How do you define luxury?
Luxury is personal. For me, sitting in the room, looking at the piano, and eating simple fresh food is true luxury. This is my definition of luxury, and it varies from person to person. Luxury is what you feel through the senses. I think we have moved very fast from being a socialist country to having a lot of money, and now social media is only making things worse.
Have today’s luxury buyers in couture become more demanding?
They have become demanding because they know what to expect. They have their own preferences. They travel, they have exposure, and they shop from Western brands. There is great awareness among consumers today. Do you think fashion brings hope in luxury? I think it should. It should make you smile and feel amazing. It should be free and energetic. It can be used to make a statement and as a form of expression.
After being in the industry for three decades, who still inspires you in fashion?
Many! Asha Sarabhai and what she does with Indian textile manufacturing and design. The Ahmedabad-based designer is artistic and ethically conscious. There are many people in [West] Bengal I work with. Rajesh Pratap Singh and his shirts are amazing. John Galliano and his ability to move people with his shows is inspiring. Define your work philosophy. I love to draw; I love to create the next thing. I love the magic of creating something beautiful. In general, it’s about returning to the idea of consuming less but consuming better, so the value system stays intact. And when it comes to sustainability, trends are often a marketing gimmick—they exist to fill markets and cater to herd mentality.
Quick Picks:
Watch: Cartier
Car: Maybach
Destination: Italy
