What's Next for Indian Bespoke? Industry Experts Share Their Take

Your grandfather’s favourite darzi wasn’t just a tailor, he was a trusted confidant and a quiet style advisor. Back then, it was hard to imagine a man in anything that wasn’t tailor-made. The family tailor clearly remembered your measurements—your hemline preferences, your exact sleeve break and even your preferred button.

Your grandfather’s favourite darzi wasn’t just a tailor, he was a trusted confidant and a quiet style advisor. Back then, it was hard to imagine a man in anything that wasn’t tailor-made. The family tailor clearly remembered your measurements—your hemline preferences, your exact sleeve break and even your preferred button.

The New Face of Bespoke

Now, a new wave of design conscious and professionally run tailoring businesses has emerged. “Today’s successful bespoke tailors are not just sewing clothes, they’re building brands. They’re offering curated fabrics, stylish showrooms and a much more structured, customer-first approach,” observes Ketan Pishe, partner at P N Rao which began its journey in Bengaluru in 1923. In its early days, British officers and high ranking ladies relied on the design house for customised perfection.

The rise of ready-to-wear in the ’90s and the branded retail boom of the 2000s shifted focus away from traditional tailoring. While tailoring has always had a place in the Indian wardrobe, it is now undergoing a renaissance. “Today’s client may admire the sharpness of an Italian double-breasted suit, yet want it crafted with Indian Corneliani textiles. They may request a bandhgala with Parisian detailing or ask for hidden messages sewn into a cuff. This is no longer tailoring as we knew it—this is emotional engineering,” says Sushain Mital, director at The Darzi Group, which has been rooted in the world of bespoke tailoring since 1981.

Indian men have become increasingly discerning, knowledgeable and globally attuned, yet they remain deeply rooted in their cultural identity. “Indian clients appreciate the heritage of Italian craftsmanship that Corneliani represents, but they also seek garments that reflect their own heritage, values and individuality,” says Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, style director and general merchandising manager at Corneliani.

This has prompted the brand to deepen its Made-to-Measure (MTM) offerings and even explore India-specific capsule collections. Corneliani’s personal tailoring lies in the direct dialogue between the customer and a highly specialised team of tailors, who provide dedicated and exclusive attention throughout every phase of the process, with a one-on-one approach tailored entirely to the client’s needs and preferences. The process is thorough: crafting a single jacket alone requires a minimum of 164 individual steps and nearly 540 handmade finishes, all of which undergo seven rigorous quality checks before delivery. From the moment of order to completion, the turnaround time is around four to five weeks.

Another noteworthy made-to measure experience shaped by the encounter between Italian craftsmanship and personal expression is Me by Canali. Each garment is crafted in Italy, combining over 90 years of sartorial mastery with the client’s individual style. From fabric selection to final fittings, every step is personalised, resulting in garments as unique as the wearer. The service is available by appointment at all Canali boutiques across India.

Stefano Canali, president and CEO of the Canali Group, observes that the Indian client is informed, sophisticated and increasingly selective—he doesn’t just purchase garments, he curates a wardrobe that reflects his personality. “We’ve adapted by offering not only exceptional tailoring, but also an immersive, responsible experience that puts the customer at the centre of creation,” he says.

Beyond the Stitch

As a bespoke tailor, one’s role goes beyond cutting and stitching; it’s about breathing life into design concepts. Take Brioni’s recent partnership with the historic French luxury fabric brand Dormeuil to launch Utopia Super 220’s—a yarn of unparalleled refinement that transforms a garment into irresistible softness. The ‘Super’ designation reflects the finesse of the wool: the higher the Super S value, the softer the fabric. Beyond fabric re-engineering and innovation, bespoke is about intuitive fit. It moves with you, supports your posture and enhances your presence without demanding attention. It begins with the client’s silhouette, but goes deeper into understanding their energy, lifestyle and posture. “Where do we build structure? Where do we allow softness? These decisions create a garment that not only looks sharp but feels lived in,” shares Mital.

Ultimately, it is about harmony, and not just measurement. “The shoulder line should sit naturally, the sleeve should allow for simple movement without excess fabric, and the waist should taper to accentuate the body while still allowing comfort,” says designer Raghavendra Rathore. When a garment truly fits, it disappears. It allows the wearer to feel free, grounded, and confident.

“Fit is a form that respects movement. Shoulder lines that rest naturally, jacket waists that shape without constriction, and trousers that fall with ease but never excess—these are the hallmarks of mastery,” says Gaudioso. Moreover, bespoke isn’t about exclusivity anymore—it’s about expression. The future lies in design and tailoring that is minimal, meaningful and masterfully made. “We see bespoke evolving into a service that extends beyond garments—into lifestyle, experience and emotion,” says Sandeep Gonsalves, co-founder of Sarah & Sandeep.

The Classic Cut, Redefined

Another emerging trend is customisation beyond silhouette. Clients are increasingly requesting bespoke linings, engraved buttons, monograms, and even custom scented garment packaging. “It’s about designing a signature beyond the stitch,” adds Gonsalves. In today’s shape-shifting bespoke space, hybrid pieces are taking centrestage—like a bandhgala with bomber elements, a trench coat with water-repellent tech or unstructured jackets with Nehru collars. “Co-ord sets and overshirts are redefining semi-formal dressing, especially among younger clients,” notes Mital. In formalwear, the core remains classic—a two-button suit, flat-front or single-pleat trousers, the signature American fall. What evolves are the details: lapel widths, pocket styles, inner linings and subtle monograms.

Clients are leaning towards modular wardrobes, where each garment can be dressed up or down. “In India, we’ve seen a growing appetite for garments that blend elegance with versatility. That’s why Me by Canali now includes knitwear, outerwear and denim. Each piece is customisable in every detail,” says Canali.

Customisation driven by legacy will increasingly shape bespoke going forward, believe designers. “As AI and data analytics enter the retail sector, consumers now expect not only a great fit but also personalised recommendations that cater to their lifestyle, travel preferences and personal ethos,” says Rathore.

Bespoke is only set to become more personal as designers collaborate closely with both weavers and clients. The next age of Indian bespoke will be defined by this conversation between legacy and innovation, tradition and technology.