How Pankaj S Chadha Turns Artisanal Lineage into Museum-Grade Fashion

Delhi-based designer Pankaj S Chadha is known for constructing a living archive of Indian craft with his garments, where artisanal lineage and material storytelling converge. Trained first as a miniature painter, he immersed himself early in microscopic detail, which continues to define his practice today. It is this foundation that informs a body of work rooted in museum-grade craftsmanship, where every thread is intentional and carries the weight of history.

Working closely with up to sixth-generation artisans, Chadha situates generational mastery at the heart of his atelier, Pankaj S Heritage, ensuring inherited knowledge systems are preserved within a contemporary couture framework. "I am a purist because the 'undiluted' holds a power that no modern reinterpretation can replicate. There is a sacredness in a stitch that has remained unchanged for many generations," he says.

His creations are pure maximalism anchored in meaning, unfolding each piece as a narrative of heritage and identity — whether through intricate detailing or projects such as Project Tantavyaa: Shwet Shyam by RSB Foundation at the National Crafts Museum & Hastkala Academy.

It was the stillness of the pandemic that crystallised something fundamental, sharpening his resolve to move beyond design into patronage. Being a custodian of a fading craft, he shared, carries immense responsibility — every stitch must honour its original spirit while creating a sustainable future for the artisans preserving its legacy.

In an era of disposability, Chadha’s work insists on permanence. Each garment is a repository of craft, each creation a testament to the enduring soul of Indian artistry — and he will make certain you know exactly what you are wearing and who made it.

In an exclusive conversation with Robb Report India, Pankaj S Chadha spoke about craft, cultural preservation, and building a living archive of India’s artisanal heritage through couture. 

Robb Report India(RR): How did your journey — from a miniature painter to textile conservationist to eventually a couturier — take shape?

Pankaj S Chadha(PSC): My obsession with the needle began with the brush; those early years spent in the disciplined world of miniature painting cultivated an eye for the microscopic detail that now defines my textiles. That foundation naturally evolved into a deep reverence for the museum archives, where I moved from observing the vintage to restoring the soul of ancient fabrics. Today, my couture is simply a continuation of that journey — a transition from the static canvas to the living body, where every garment is treated as a piece of artisanal history.

RR: Your work is deeply rooted in ideas like navarasa, shringar, and Vedic astrology. How do these philosophical frameworks shape your creation?

PSC: My practice is guided by the stars and the ancient codes of Indian aesthetics. Being Venus dominant, I am spiritually bound to seek the most magnetic and alluring expressions of beauty. Concepts like shringar and navarasa are not just themes, but the very atmosphere of the atelier, ensuring every piece resonates with a cosmic and emotional vibration that transcends simple adornment.

RR: You often speak about being ‘Venus dominant’. What does it mean, and how does it affect your craft?

PSC: My numerology and astrology lean heavily into Venus — meaning I am hardwired to seek the most refined expressions of beauty, whether in couture, diamonds, or classical music. In my craft, this acts as a creative North Star, pulling me towards work that isn't just well-made but inherently magnetic. It's an instinct for high-sensory luxury where lustre is non-negotiable. That means I don't design for the sake of clothing — I create to satisfy a deep-seated need for aesthetic perfection and artistic grace.

RR: In bringing rare crafts back into relevance, how do you balance preservation with creating real, lasting livelihoods for the artisans?

PSC: My approach is rooted in an uncompromising purism. By obsessing over the zenith of Indian embroidery and loom-craft, we create objects of desire that resonate deeply with the true connoisseur. This demand for ‘museum-standard work’ effectively bridges the gap between antiquity and the contemporary market, ensuring our artisan clusters are never forced to compromise their skill for the sake of survival. In this ecosystem, preservation isn't a stagnant act of charity; it is a byproduct of excellence. By positioning these rare techniques as the ultimate luxury, we provide our weavers and needle-workers with a consistent, dignified stage, turning their ancestral knowledge into a vital and enduring livelihood.

RR: You’ve consciously stepped away from conventional fashion systems — no aggressive visibility. How does that help?

PSC: Retreating from the noise allows me to protect the absolute sanctity of the heirloom. We are currently commissioned on works of such a rarefied calibre that exposing them to the public eye would only invite the cheap, mass imitation. True luxury thrives in the shadows of discretion, where the focus remains on the purity of the commission rather than the hollow theatre of aggressive visibility.

RR: Your clients actively seek you out rather than the other way around. What does that shift say about the future of luxury consumption?

PSC: My singular focus has remained on reviving museum-quality textiles and rare embroidery forms that have almost disappeared from the mainstream. Today's market is unfortunately flooded with mass-produced, machine-led garments deceptively branded as ‘couture,’ leading to a crisis of authenticity. This shift indicates the rise of a discerning, quiet luxury clientele who possess a deep eye for exquisite Indian craftsmanship and are actively hunting for the few remaining purists. For this segment, the future of luxury isn't about accessibility or trends; it is a dedicated quest for provenance, soul, and the unmatchable touch of a master artisan.

RR: Which creative voices do you find most inspiring right now and why?

PSC: Daniel Roseberry’s work is a masterful study in the equilibrium between archival authenticity and radical, avant-garde innovation. He navigates the tension between historical reverence and contemporary artistry with a precision that makes heritage feel entirely vital.

RR: How do you see Indian fashion evolving over the next few years?

PSC: Indian fashion is pivoting towards a radical, craft-centric consciousness where the garment is valued as a repository of deeper meaning and ancestral heritage. The modern connoisseur is evolving beyond the ephemeral, seeking out ‘slow’ masterpieces defined by their spiritual resonance and enduring sustenance.

RR: Fast fashion has reshaped global consumption. What has it done to people’s understanding of value and craft?

PSC: Fast fashion has fostered a ruthless indifference towards the natural world, stripping away our reverence for the very resources we’ve been gifted. We have traded the soul of the craft for the hollow convenience of the disposable. True sustainability is an act of leaning back into nature, reclaiming a sense of value that honours the Earth rather than exhausting it.

RR: Which lesser-known textile traditions in India do you feel people should be more aware of?

PSC: Himroo is a traditional heritage fabric from Aurangabad, celebrated for its intricate patterns and luxurious feel that mimics the opulence of Persian silks. It is uniquely crafted by weaving cotton and silk together to create a distinctive, velvet-like texture often found in high-end shawls and stoles.

Quick Questions:

A craft you feel most connected to? Khara Gota

Which Indian regions inspire you the most? Rajasthan, UP and Bengal

Favourite colour palette, at the moment? Sindhoori Kesari Narangi

Words that define your design philosophy? Keepsake, museum worthy and futuristic

What does luxury mean to you? Rarity