How Niche Perfumeries in India Are Changing the Luxe Fragrance Landscape

Not too long ago, a luxury fragrance meant something that was picked up from an airport—typically a flashy, gold-capped bottle from a globally-renowned fashion house. For today’s discerning customer, however, this version of luxury feels dated. Luxury consumers no longer care for loud logos and overbearing fragrance trails—what matters is the craftsmanship, the storytelling and the complexity behind the blend.

The usual suspects—think rose, jasmine and vanilla—just won’t cut it anymore. Luxury is something that’s carefully-crafted with bespoke ingredients that create a layered, nuanced blend. “Niche fragrances are unique, complex and artistic and are created by perfume houses specialised in creating scents. Comparatively, mainstream fragrances appeal to a broader crowd owing to their mass appeal and widespread availability,” says Shankey Bhattacharya, National Training Manager, Niche division, Maison Des Parfums.

Over the past two years, the niche perfumery space in India has seen a quiet, yet steady expansion. Global cult brands like Ex Nihilo, Xerjoff, Nishane and Roja are making their presence felt with unconventional notes and evocative storytelling. Closer home, Indian brands are carving their own niche with names like LilaNur Parfums, Bombay Perfumery and Naso Profumi reimagining formulations and formats. “International niche brands are entering the Indian market via online platforms, boutique stores and collaborations, fuelling interest. Indian consumers are increasingly seeking personal expressions that stand out. Niche fragrances, with their emphasis on artistry, craftsmanship and unique scent profiles, are gaining traction among a niche but growing segment of perfume enthusiasts, urban professionals, and connoisseurs,” adds Bhattacharya.

So what is it exactly that makes these artisanal fragrances so captivating? As Shishir Mehta, founder, Scentido Niche Perfumery explains, “Niche perfumes distinguish themselves through their artisanal approach, characterised by rare ingredients, small-batch craftsmanship, and creative freedom.” Unlike mass-market scents centred around trends, niche perfumes rely on rare, high-quality ingredients. Mehta points to precious absolutes, essential oils and exclusive synthetic molecules that lend depth and originality to each blend. The result is an elegant composition that’s both distinctive and lasting. The creation of a niche scent is a meticulous process—one that adds a whole lot of character to the final result.

The starting points could be a memory, a place or even a piece of art, following which ingredients are carefully selected. “Choosing the right ingredients for the scent and the process of maceration and maturation plays a very important role in creating a niche scent which makes it more complex and creates more sillage,” says Bhattacharya.

While classics like rose, jasmine and vanilla aren’t going anywhere, their modern iterations are far more nuanced and layered. "The gourmand category is expanding and maturing. As perfumers continue to reinterpret edible notes with unexpected pairings and elegant contrasts, we’re witnessing the rise of a new kind of olfactory indulgence: decadent, daring, and undeniably addictive,” observes Mehta. Some of the top ‘trending’ ingredients currently are saffron, rhubarb, fig, tea, and spices.

India, too with its age-old perfumery legacy is playing a leading role in this evolution. Traditional ingredients like Mysore sandalwood, vetiver (or khus), saffron, oud and tea accords are being creatively reimagined by perfumers worldwide.

For those who are just starting to explore niche perfumery, there’s an entire world to explore. Bhattacharya recommends Dom Rosa by Liquides Imaginaires, which he describes as “a very romantic, sparkling fragrance with woody notes.” Hacivat by Nishane is “pure art—sophisticated, mossy, spicy, and perfect for all genders.”

Not A Perfume by Juliette Has a Gun, now celebrating its 15th year stands out for its minimalism. It’s built around a single molecule called cetalox and celebrated for its clean, elegant accord. Blue Talisman by Ex Nihilo is “modern, fresh and airy,” with notes of pear and ambrofix. And Erba Pura by Xerjoff is reminiscent of a Mediterranean fruit basket—“warm, fluid and masterfully composed.”

According to Mehta, some of the most ‘trending’ launches include L Red Tea Vetiver by Clive Christian, Tilia by Marc-Antoine Barrois, Vanilla Powder by Matiere Premiere and Wanderlust by Oman Luxury.

For the Indian consumer, niche perfumery is a means of crafting a unique signature. In a world of instant gratification, these stories in a bottle offer the greatest luxury: slowness and intention.