For anyone who hadn’t yet picked up on the signs, the message became abundantly clear during the menswear shows in Milan in January: Flash is back. Nowhere was this more apparent than at Dolce & Gabbana. After a parade of fur-heavy outerwear, the brand sent out 20 tuxedos of varying stripes. Strongly accessorised with statement necklaces, more fur, and brooches galore—and made even more glittering by the “paparazzi” flashbulbs that lit up the entrance to the runway—the inundation of wealth flaunting felt like a much-needed balm after several seasons of clothes that merely whispered.
Conspicuous consumption and extravagant flourishes have returned, accompanied by a roller coaster of economic uncertainty. Almost as if in revolt against the global financial environment, the cultural zeitgeist is demanding some unapologetic bravado. After the announcement was made in October that Luca Guadagnino would be directing a remake of American Psycho, social-media accounts and A.I. artists began paying tribute to the glamorous excess of 1980s bankers in London, Zurich, and New York. Whether or not the film’s yet-to-be-named costume designer will go the retro route for Austin Butler’s Patrick Bateman remains to be seen. If we had any say in the matter, we’d suggest looking to Brunello Cucinelli, who crafts the most luxe version of that corporate-finance essential: the fleece-lined vest.
Meanwhile, American designer Todd Snyder cited Paris during the decade of decadence in his fall 2025 collection’s show notes, channeling “businessmen in three-piece suits ducking into Le Voltaire for dinner.” That meant slightly oversize silhouettes rendered in sumptuous fabrics such as velvet and silk brocade. And, of course, we’d be remiss not to mention the era central to the heyday of USA's brassy current president.
A less-welcome throwback: the looming threat of a recession. While many are letting loose, others are literally tightening their belts. During times of uncertainty, some comfort (of the sartorial variety) can often be found in embracing timeless silhouettes rooted in heritage. Enter Ralph Lauren, who teamed up with Major League Baseball on an all-American collaboration perfect for an evening of escapism in your stadium suite. If all else fails, Dunhill makes a damn fine bug-out bag.
