Tried & Tasted: The Martini Bar in Goa is a Spirited Journey Highlighting Indian Produce

“My father and I bond over a good martini,” says Yeshwantrao Holkar, a descendant of the 18th-century Maratha queen Ahilyabai Holkar, who runs the Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel in Maheshwar and Ahilya by the Sea in Goa. “I’ve always loved the drink.”

It could explain why the Partner at Ahilya Experiences decided the time was right to open a martini bar, dedicated to others like him who appreciate the refined drink. “It [a martini] is a very simple, elegant, and different kind of expression of a cocktail. We are not super into fruity, floral mixology stuff. I realised there are a lot of other people who also enjoy the simplicity of a good martini,” he adds.

These people can now find a home at The Martini Bar by Ahilya by the Sea in Goa. On offer are only martinis, with inspiration from places like Tuticorin, Indore, Ladakh, and other places that hold sentimental value for the Holkar family. Countertop India has done the menu for this bar.

The Space

Ahilya by the Sea is a luxurious ten-room property in Goa’s Nerul village. The lounge that houses The Martini Bar looks out onto the Mandovi River and the property’s infinity pool. It’s a gorgeous location, ideal for quiet evenings where the crashing of waves is the only sound.

The lounge is comfortable, rooted in nostalgia with vintage elements. The whole structure is done in laterite and limestone, the old Goan way of building homes. Full-length doors lead to different cosy nooks in the garden.

There’s a small library for those seeking to curl up with a book and a drink. There’s even a writing chair. The seating is plush and cosy, and the lighting is low. It’s easy to imagine a fireplace in the room.

The Drinks

It’s a compact menu: eight martinis, named after a specific region that is tied to the main ingredient in the drink.

Each drink comes with a ‘sidecar’, a top-up shot served in an ice bath. Note: if attempting to drink all eight martinis and still be able to walk at the end of it, skip the side car. Additionally, there’s reading material, a small snapshot of the inspiration behind the cocktail, and why it is named thus.

“These are not basic drinks. They have attention to detail but focused around minimalism of expression,” says Holkar.

Being Goan, we start off our Indian martini journey with The Chorao. The essence of the small island, off Panaji, is distilled into a potent urrak and vodka martini. The fattiness and oils from the cashew, almond, and walnut clarification balance the extra dryness from the vermouth, making it a sweet-smelling but well-balanced drink. A spice or citrus garnish would’ve helped. The Goan feni makes its presence in the vodka martini called The Kochi. Feni is prominent on the nose and the tongue. The aroma is reminiscent of fermented spirit, and it’s a drink that coats the tongue. The coconut-forward drink – there’s coconut water, and coconut feni – with a touch of curry leaf is the taste of the coast, and the ideal warming drink for a cold night.

The Tuticorin is a gin martini that’s a twist on the olive martini. Here, caper berry brine brings in the saltiness and aroma. The drink starts salty and then adds a sweet blast at the back of the throat. A bite of the caper kept in the mouth adds a bit of extra flavour.

The Ladakh offers fruity sweetness and is a balanced and smooth drink. The pickled apricot, while it could've benefited from more pickling, still adds balance. Udaipur has floral sweetness. The aroma makes it feel like there’s a rose in your glass. It is a spirit (gin) forward drink with floral undertones from the rose water. Saffron stars in the Gulmarg, which has a strong and sweet after feel. It’s a gin-forward drink with warming notes of coriander, and spices from the gin are quite prominent.

Guava is the chosen ingredient in The Bombay. Unfortunately, the only essence of the fruit can be found on the spiced salted rim. Overall, it’s a sweet drink that I wouldn't necessarily associate with Bombay and leaves me wanting for spice and guava.

The citrus makes its presence felt almost instantly in The Indore. It wafts up the nose, has the smell and flavour of the lime, and a dry bitterness from grapefruit. It’s the most well-balanced martini of the lot, offering the feel of a gin and tonic. “Indore has our ancestral home, so I am biased towards that cocktail. I like a classic, very dry martini with a twist. This was a fun gardening project, too. The Indore is based around the flavours of the Indore seedless lemon, which was a variety of citrus developed in the state by my grandfather (under the Indore State Horticultural Institute). We revived this lemon in the gardens of Ahilya Fort, and we now grow them at Ahilya by the Sea,” says Holkar.

The Food

Ahilya has only one restaurant, and there is a variety of food on offer, including daily specials. Our martini experience includes their small plates, which pack a punch and help enhance the drinking experience. Think meaty Beef Croquettes, lightly spiced Fish Rissois and interestingly enough, a briney Seaweed Rissois. There’s also a refreshing, crunchy Exotic Greek Salad for a touch of the greens.

RR Verdict: Martini Bar has ambition and backs it up with some good drinks. The menu is a mixed bag: some drinks will beg for attention, others not so much. It’s a bar for those who appreciate that martinis can be simple and refined but also tell a story.

Note: The Martini Bar is open mainly to Ahilya guests; others can only visit by reservation.