

You land in Leh and as you step out of the aircraft, its vastness instantly makes you feel like a tiny speck. You breathe unpolluted air, crisp and clean, and just as you begin to take it in, a cool breeze nudges you to put on your jacket in summer. It is Leh, after all.
You slow down, reminding yourself to acclimatise before diving into the adventure. While many arrive here on bikes, stargazing, and zoning out under impossibly clear skies, I had my priorities firmly in place–I was here for the food.
The Grand Dragon Ladakh welcomed me with warmth that instantly felt like home. Acclimatisation came easy, the property gave me exactly what I needed, serenity and sweeping views of Leh. But the real highlight of my visit was Ryu Oka, The Grand Dragon Ladakh’s latest culinary offering. As someone who loves Asian cuisine, my expectations were naturally high.
Ryu Oka isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a personal project shaped by an almost obsessive attention to detail. At its helm is Anjum Qadir, the creative force and scion of the Abdu family that runs The Grand Dragon Ladakh. The idea for Ryu Oka was born in a reflective moment, Qadir sitting outside a now-demolished cafe on a chair, imagining if he could curate a fine-dine experience in Leh inspired by his travels across the world. What followed was a year of building that vision from ground up, first on paper, and then into reality.
A seasoned traveller, Qadir would have found it easy to source global influences for his space but he consciously chose to root the restaurant in Ladakh’s cultural identity. The walls are crafted by Qadir himself. He travelled across Ladakh, handpicking rocks, creating silicone impressions on-site, and later embedding them into the restaurant’s structure with cement, each one placed and plastered by hand. Even the smallest details carry his imprint. The table napkins, for instance, are hand-designed using the Japanese shibori technique, and it took multiple iterations before he arrived at a version that felt just right.
Another thing that captures your attention at the restaurant is a painting of the majestic, snowcapped mountains done by Qadir’s father, an artist himself. The breathtaking piece makes you feel enveloped in Leh’s ethereal beauty as Asian flavours unfold on your plate.
The handcrafted narrative continues through the woodwork at the restaurant. The intricate jali patterns draw inspiration from a 500–600 year-old monastery in Nubra. Overhead, curtains bearing the name “Ryu Oka”, translating to “Dragon Hill”, echo Japanese design sensibilities and have been hand-painted by Qadir himself.
Sustainability is not a buzzword here, it is a practice. Qadir insists no trees were cut in the making of the restaurant. Much of the material was repurposed from their now demolished hotel, and nearly every element is handcrafted. Apart from essential cutlery and plates, very little has been commercially sourced.
The experience begins on a warm note with a shot of roasted barley water, it is comforting and earthy. The menu moves fluidly across Asia. Soups range from a sharp yuzu hot and sour with wild mushrooms and scallions to a comforting tom kha layered with coconut cream and chilli oil. But the small plates truly shine. The tofu spinach gomae, dressed in a creamy sesame sauce with hints of apple, is a delicious opener, well-balanced, and in sync with the restaurant’s understated vibe, with Japanese jazz humming softly in the background.
Some dishes have a way of becoming your repeat order. For me, it was the crackling Cauli Popcorn. Crisp on the outside, soft within, and coated in a punchy dynamite mayo, this one was addictive. For non-vegetarians, the menu doesn’t hold back. Think Thousand Chilli Scallion Chicken with boriya chilli and peanut crumble, Sichuan Conjee Lamb layered with fried garlic and red peppers, and Rock Shrimp Tempura paired with Dynamite Mayo and Crispy Spinach.
The Teriyaki Pineapple, sweet, tangy, is impossible to stop at one bite. Ryu Oka’s signature
dish uses Ladakh’s beloved local green, mongol, wrapped into delicate dumplings that are served over black bean sauce, a beautiful intersection of local produce and Asian flavours. Dietary restrictions are handled with ease here, for instance, for my mushroom allergy, an alternative was crafted without hesitation.
Other noteworthy bites include edamame and cream cheese dumplings finished with truffle oil and burnt garlic, and a selection of indulgent sushi, from vegetarian rolls with avocado and asparagus to non-vegetarian options like Hot Salmon Alaska.
The Japanese influence extends to dishes like the cold pizza, topped with bell peppers, jalapeno, ponzu aioli, and marinated wakame–light and perfect to be enjoyed alongside a curated cocktail and mocktail menu.
For those who enjoy an immersive experience, there is seating by the kitchen, offering a front-row view of the chefs at work. Mains range from all-time favourites like claypot Thai curry to kung pao chicken with choice of noodles and rice like fragrant jasmine rice, truffle fried rice and chilli garlic noodles. The pad thai, loaded with bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, crispy garlic, and scallions, was a hit with all the right notes. Alternatively, bowls like the Ohn No Khao Suey offer a complete, comforting meal.
Dessert is non-negotiable. The chocolate mousse is impossibly light, made with toasted barley, Ladakhi salt, and olive oil. The Vietnamese Coffee Milk Cake reimagines tiramisu with coffee mousse, apricot compote, and apricot oil.
Ryu Oka doesn’t try to be something you don’t recognise, and that is precisely its strength. It offers a thoughtful take on Asian cuisine while staying rooted in Ladakh’s identity. At 11,500 feet above sea level, it delivers a dining experience that feels both unexpected and luxurious.