Aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express from Singapore through Malaysia, a couple discovers the nostalgic romance of slow rail travel. Renovated post-pandemic, the Art Deco train blends luxury cabins, Malaysian staff hospitality, curated excursions, and chef André Chiang’s inventive cuisine. Piano-bar nights, Dior Spa rituals, and thoughtful gifts deepen a journey that leaves them smitten with train travel’s timeless charm.
In an age when comfort and convenience powered by technology are synonymous with luxury, cranking a lever to raise the window blinds felt strangely calming. With every rotation, I felt time slowing down in the most wonderful way. My husband and I were on board the stately Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O), part of Belmond’s portfolio of luxury hotels, trains, and river cruises. Starting from Singapore, the train goes all the way to the northernmost state of Malaysia and back. Outside the window, rural Malaysia rushed past as towns gave way to palm oil plantations, muddy streams, and tree-strewn hillocks.
During our three-night, four-day journey, we joined approximately 40 guests and an equal number of staff on the Tastes of Tomorrow. Essence of Malaysia itinerary, designed to give guests a taste of the country. From the moment we boarded, every interaction immersed us in Malaysia’s colours, flavours, and stories. Almost all the staff is Malaysian, and their pride in their country and culture is evident, adding to the overall experience.
My partner and I checked into a State Cabin with two single beds at floor level and an ensuite bathroom. While these amenities may be standard on land, they felt luxurious on a moving train. Designed as an ode to Penang’s coastal location, our cabin was done up in ocean blues and emerald greens, every inch covered in rich velvets, fine silks, and gleaming cherry wood panels.
During the pandemic the E&O saw a temporary hiatus, during which it was completely renovated before returning to service in February 2024. Everything on board the E&O evoked nostalgia including timely announcements over the loudspeaker that kept us informed of the train’s progress.
As an added personalised touch, our cabin steward Navein Prakash, would appear out of thin air, at the right moment to make sure we knew when and where we needed to be for meals, excursions and such. All we had to do was show up, and let the legion of servers, bar staff and entertainers take care of the rest.
Helmed by celebrity chef André Chiang, the food served on the E&O plays an important part in allowing guests to experience Malaysia and its diverse cultures through the palate. We had meals across two dining cars, Adisorn and Malaya, where impeccably plated dishes including aubergine mousse and airy soufflés were served with orchestrated flair. Using Malaysia’s excellent produce, Chiang and his team served up traditional Malay dishes with a contemporary twist. A wine sommelier ensured every dish was paired with the right wine, and no glass was empty unless the drinker so desired.
The E&O is known for its Art Deco flourishes, elegance, and old-world charm, but what added to the experience were the many thoughtful touches and attention to detail. I might have been the single vegetarian on board, but I had two options to choose from for my main course like everyone else, presented on an embossed menu card with gold lettering.
Post dinner, the action shifted to the Piano Bar where a pianist and vocalist serenaded those who chose to hang around well into the night. The bar staff were also on top of their game mixing cocktails with ingredients like pandan leaves and dried pineapple flowers that had us asking for seconds on more than one occasion.
We returned to our cabins where a night turndown service ensured sleep beckoned, and to practical and beautiful gifts such as refillable bottles, tote bags fashioned from earlier upholstery, and Peranakan tile coasters.
The train made scheduled stops, offering guests the opportunity to embark on carefully curated excursions. From experiencing the wild heart of Malaysia in Perlis, the country’s smallest state, to wandering George Town’s alleyways filled with towering murals, galleries, and creatives pushing boundaries, or picking up skills in a hands-on Malaysian cooking class, there was something to suit every interest. Yet the consensus was clear: returning to the E&O was always the best part of the day.
Whenever time permitted, I escaped to the stunning Observation Car at the rear. This was the perfect spot to enjoy some quiet time, indulge in a good book or savour a strong coffee as the train passed through ever-changing landscapes. For some additional pampering, a stylish Dior Spa on board offers a slew of Asian-inspired beauty rituals across two treatment rooms decorated in the brand’s trademark Toile de Jouy motif.
As the four days came towards an end, conversations veered towards future travels, including journeys on Belmond’s trains across the world. At the beginning, I thought one experience on a luxury train would suffice, but I was clearly mistaken. There’s a seductive charm to travelling by train and I left smitten, dreaming of my next.