A detailed travelogue of an eight-day Antarctica21 air-cruise, beginning in Punta Arenas and continuing on the Magellan Explorer. The story captures the contrast between rugged Antarctic landings and the ship’s comforts, from saunas to open-air barbecues, while emphasizing IAATO-aligned biosecurity measures, varied excursions, and the high cost of accessing this remote, pristine destination.
Given my early love for wildlife, I have watched nature documentaries with fascination; I just never expected to actually be in one. But as I walked gingerly on the melting snow at Jougla Point, our first shore excursion on my recent Antarctica cruise, I could almost swear I heard the dulcet voice of David Attenborough go: “Now the male gentoo penguin…” For, as soon as I stepped on this rocky island, I saw a colony of gentoo penguins, busy with their annual summerbreeding rituals. While the males were collecting pebbles to fortify their “homes”, the females were guarding their precious eggs just before they hatched, or feeding the tiny, hungry chicks that had emerged on this icy cold wilderness. Further ahead, a weddell seal lay sunbathing on a rock, his stocky, grey body blending into the volcanic stone. And, right next to him, a whale skeleton, as if on display in a natural history museum. Wherever I turned, there was something magical waiting: dramatic outcrops, ancient icebergs, and, of course, the handful of seals and hundreds of gentoo penguins—their bright orange beaks and feet gleaming in the pristine snowscape. This was only the second day of my week-long expedition cruise with Antarctica21, and I felt I’d already seen it all.
My adventure began in the small town of Punta Arenas in south Chile, from where my husband and I boarded our flight to Antarctica. That’s right—we were flying to the white continent and completely bypassing the dreaded Drake Passage with its ginormous waves and winds that travellers to Antarctica have had to deal with.
Based in Chile, Antarctica21 is one of the pioneers in the fly-andcruise concept. Apart from the comfort, it also meant the chance to save four days of travel by sea just to get from south America to Antarctica. Another reason for my choosing this boutique cruise company is their commitment to sustainable tourism. Given how fragile and unique the Antarctica ecosystem is, especially in the face of relentlessly increasing tourism, this was a crucial factor in making my decision. As a member of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), the global, non-profit alliance of responsible private sector companies, Antarctica21’s operations are as geared towards protecting and preserving this delicate land for future generations, as they are towards providing memorable experiences for travellers. This meant strict biosecurity measures such as thoroughly vacuuming all outer gear before setting sail and washing our boots each time we boarded the ship after a hike. Plus, no sitting down on the ice (or anywhere on the land), or putting down our backpacks and gear. All of this was necessary to prevent contamination and the possibility of spreading any disease among the penguin colonies. Although there is some walking and hiking on ice and snow, the trip is suitable for people of all ages and fitness levels and does not need any prior preparation. It helps to keep multiple layers of clothing handy, so that you can stay warm.
In less than two hours after we’d strapped ourselves into our seats aboard the Antarctic Airways plane operated by Aerovías DAP (another Chilean company that operates charter and scheduled flights), we landed on the Chilean base of King George Island. Our expedition vessel was the sleek Magellan Explorer: a custombuilt expedition ship that was capable of cutting through light ice on the Antarctic waters.
There is room for just 76 passengers, allowing for an intimate exploration of this remote destination. But in spite of our small group, there were 60 crew members on board, often managing to respond to our demands before we had even expressed them. The Magellan Explorer has seven categories of cabins, ranging from porthole cabins to a penthouse suite. My home was somewhere in the middle, a spacious Deluxe Veranda Cabin that opened up to views of icebergs and glaciers, penguins and whales, and glorious sunshine lasting until midnight, as we were in the midst of summer in the southern hemisphere.
During my rare downtimes from the hubbub of excursions and nature experiences, the cabin had everything I could ask for including handpicked snacks and coffee pods (replenished as soon as they got over), as well as twice-daily cleaning and turndown services. Right opposite my cabin was a small library with lounge chairs, books, and periodicals about the polar regions. For those who just can’t take a clean break from work, there are a couple of computers with internet access (although, we all had access to WiFi onboard—perfect for sharing photos on social media). There’s also a fully-equipped gym (which I wisely avoided in favour of hikes in the fresh air) and a sauna (which hit the right spot after said hikes).
Meals were served in the formal dining room, where I would arrive early to snag window seats. After all, how often can you say you had a breakfast of eggs and toast, with a side order of icebergs? While lunch was a quick buffet, dinners were elaborate, three-course meals, with the expedition staff often joining guest tables for conversations and reminiscences.
On a particularly fine evening, the kitchen staff pulled off an openair barbecue that quickly turned into a boisterous dance party with wine and cake.
But the beating heart of the ship was the spacious Antarctica lounge on the fifth deck, with coffee, tea, hot chocolate, as well as cookies and pastries available all day. This was where we gathered to listen to daily briefings by the expedition leader and watch presentations by the rest of the crew, covering subjects ranging from the evolution of tourism in the white continent to the role of women in the world of Antarctic Science.
Not surprisingly, I ended up spending most of my onboard time in this lounge, chatting with fellow passengers, or simply enjoying the expansive views.
The days quickly fell into a pleasant routine, with two daily excursions either as a shore landing for a hike and peep at nesting penguin colonies, or as a cruise on the zodiac boats for an up-close-and-personal view of the breathtaking landscapes. Each outing was different, with a staggering variety in scenery and wildlife, belying any preconceptions that the white continent is devoid of colour (50 shades of blue, anyone?).
I was particularly thrilled with the chance to witness penguin behaviour from such proximity. This included watching them tottering up and down the “highways” they had created on snow towards the ocean, occasionally falling to their tummies and tobogganing downhill, and craning their necks to emit high-pitched noises to communicate with each other. Over the course of the week, we saw three penguin species: gentoo, adelie, and chinstrap, each with their own charming idiosyncrasies. “You are so lucky!” was a refrain we heard from the expedition staff throughout our journey, referring to the warm and sunny weather we had been blessed with. I nodded solemnly each time someone said it, because after having visited six continents only Antarctica was left. And I was indeed lucky to finally have had the chance to visit it.
The fares on Antarctica21’s eightday, seven-night air cruise on the Magellan Explorer begin at $18,995 (approximately INR 17 lakh) per person.