The road to Velda Bada winds through Uttarakhand’s lesser-known hills, past forested land, an undulating river, and small hamlets. Five-and-a-half hours from Delhi, a rustic gate to The Sen appears, almost hidden against the hillside. A cobbled path leads upward, steep enough to make you pause, but inviting enough to continue. A swimming pool, tucked into the landscape, emerges along the way; its still water mirroring the trees.
Once I reach the top, I step into a living room. The cool, refreshing welcome tea instantly feels restorative. This is my first clue: The Sen is not a hotel in the traditional sense. It is something far more personal.
Far removed from the spectacle of fashion weeks and front rows, designer Nakul Sen has created a retreat that feels like an extension of his inner world. The space is flooded with natural light and large windows, each draped in sheer fabrics to frame the hills outside. The palette is deliberately muted with creams, off-whites, and earthy tones, allowing the landscape to remain the true protagonist.
When Sen first saw this four-acre stretch of forested hillside, he instantly loved the space. Taking a cue from nature, he started designing the architecture by following the land's natural contours. Trees that stood here before construction are now integrated into pathways, decks, and open spaces. Materials—stone, glass, and sustainably sourced wood from Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh—anchor the structure. Even the suites are arranged along different levels of the hillside, integrating the lay of the land within the resort’s design. With just four suites, a lounge, an outdoor pool, a dining space, and a network of sit-outs scattered across the property, The Sen is compact and allows for plenty of intimate settings for those seeking privacy.
While Nakul Sen’s vision shapes the retreat's aesthetic and emotional core, the operational philosophy is designed by veteran hotelier Anand Shekhawat. With decades of experience across global hospitality brands like Aman and The Oberoi, his influence is evident in the seamless service, curated experiences, and sustainability-led approach. The hospitality is warm, intuitive, and definitively personal—thanks in no small part to the on-ground team led by Chand Babu, whose presence makes me feel less like a visitor and more like a welcomed friend.
My days here are unstructured by design. I drift between solitude and conversation. I often find myself in the lounge, sharing stories over a perfectly balanced picante. At other times, I disappear into a quiet corner with nothing but a book and the sound of wind through trees.
Evenings bring a gentle chill. A crackling fire becomes the centre of gravity, drawing everyone closer. Later, an electric blanket, set to the perfect temperature, turns my bed into a cocoon against the cool mountain air.
Mornings arrive without alarm clocks. Even a reluctant early riser like me wakes with the sun. Breakfast is generous: freshly squeezed juice, local gehatki roti, poha, eggs made to order, homemade preserves, and strong Colombian coffee.
The kitchen, led by Chef Pankaj Sharma, draws from both local and global influences. Pahadi ingredients meet contemporary techniques. A risotto made with locally sourced rice, served alongside a rich lamb stew, becomes a perfect expression of this philosophy. I enjoy healthy, nourishing meals inspired from local cuisine for lunch, and delicious soups, salads, live grills, and global fare for dinner. Much of the produce comes from the on-site organic garden or nearby villages, while artisanal teas and curated tastings by Anandini Himalaya Tea add another layer to the experience.
Meals are often served outdoors, around a long communal table that encourages conversation.
The team curates bespoke dining setups across the property—by the pool, under a canopy of stars, or beside a gently flowing stream. A streamside lunch involves dipping my feet into cool water while something grills nearby.
At another time, a picnic in the pines arrives beautifully laid out, with fresh fruit, local bites, and thoughtfully arranged cheese boards. Every meal comes with beautiful tablescapes; details like handmade crockery and carefully styled table settings echo Sen’s couture sensibility. Local flora is combined with carefully chosen accent pieces to lend an aesthetic charm to each meal.
The Sen offers a deep connection to its surroundings. The region is rich in biodiversity, with over 230 bird species recorded in and around the property. Guided walks with naturalists take you through forests, riverbanks, and open meadows, where sightings might include Kalij pheasants, red-billed blue magpies, and white-crested laughing thrushes.
I, however, pick another adventure. A sunrise hike leads me to the nearby Jhatri Village. Along the way, the forest reveals itself in fleeting glimpses, a barking deer slipping through the undergrowth, and distant calls echoing across the valley. Other guests speak of spotting jackals, even the occasional leopard, on late evening drives.
For those seeking wellness, forest bathing offers a slower, more introspective way to engage with nature. Yoga sessions, soon to be introduced, promise to deepen that sense of connection. In warmer months, the pool will transform into a space for open-air movie nights under the stars.
As for me? I find myself feeling rejuvenated somewhere between the hills and the forest, in the stillness that The Sen so carefully preserves.