ePocket watches, once relics of a bygone era, are back as bold style statements. This feature explores six modern, rare creations that reinvent the classic open-face and hunter-case formats, from Hublot’s sculptural Arsham Droplet and Christopher Ward’s luminous Alliance 02 to Audemars Piguet’s ultra-complex Universal Calendar and Parmigiani’s revived minute repeater.
A pocket watch is exactly what it sounds like, a timepiece meant to be carried in a pocket instead of getting strapped to the wrist. For centuries, from their origins in 16th-century Europe until wristwatches took over after World War I, pocket watches were simply how people told time. They came in two classic styles: the open-face watch, with a crystal protecting the dial, and the hunter-case watch, with a hinged metal cover that snapped shut over the face to guard it from dust and scratches. Often worn on a chain looped through a waistcoat or belt, and sometimes on a leather fob instead, the pocket watch was as much a piece of personal style as it was a practical tool. It was the sense of history tucked into every tick that set the stage for the stories that follow.
Although pocket watches weren't always seen as cool, in fact, for a long time, they felt outdated, something tucked away in a drawer. But in recent years, that's officially changed. Today, carrying a pocket watch is seen as a mark of style and individuality, and what was once old-fashioned is now genuinely chic.
Created with artist Daniel Arsham, this piece is arguably the most forward-looking pocket watch in the market. It's built with a sapphire crystal case, a titanium body, and a hand-wound movement case that holds a ten-day power reserve. What makes it especially versatile is its design. It can be carried as a traditional pocket watch, worn as a pendant, or set on its included stand and used as a small table clock. Only 99 were made, and the asymmetrical, sculptural look is unmistakably Arsham. The watch was priced at $88,000 USD (approx. Rs. 74 lakhs).
Built in collaboration with Studio Underdog, this 44mm piece is billed as one of the most luminous pocket watches ever produced. Its dial uses several layers of Super-LumiNova beneath a thin floating sapphire disc, so it looks striking in daylight and glows dramatically in the dark. Inside is a hand-wound movement with a five-day power reserve, and the watch comes with both a leather strap and a bamboo desk stand. Limited to 100 pieces, it was made to raise money for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, with all profits going to the trade organisation. The watch is priced at $4,150 USD (approx Rs 4 lakhs).
Marking Audemars Piguet's 150th anniversary, this is a piece of horological engineering. It packs 47 functions into a 50mm case, including a flying tourbillon, a split-seconds flyback chronograph, and a perpetual calendar. Its standout feature is a separate Universal Calendar on the caseback that tracks solar, lunar, and cultural cycles, mapping holidays and celestial events like solstices, equinoxes, Ramadan, Diwali, and Chinese New Year from 1900 to 2099. With over 1,100 components, a hand-engraved platinum case, and a blue enamel dial, it is limited to just ten pieces total. The watch was priced at $3.2 million USD (approx Rs. 27.5 crore).
This is a pocket watch built like a piece of aerospace equipment. Its rectangular case uses carbon nanofiber originally developed for military aircraft, giving it a distinctly futuristic look. The manual-winding movement runs on twin spring barrels and delivers a ten-day power reserve, while a specially engineered crown protects against overwinding. It's a rare case of 18th-century watchmaking tradition meeting 21st-century materials science. The watch was priced at $450,000 (approx Rs. 42 lakhs).
A playful crossover between two very different watch worlds, this collection reimagines Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak design language through the lens of Swatch's colorful 1980s POP line. Eight versions were released, each built around a new hand-wound take on Swatch's SISTEM51 movement, and each available in either open-face or hunter-case styling. It's a bright, collectible take on the format aimed at pairing serious watchmaking with a sense of fun. The watch is priced at $420 USD (approx. Rs 45,000).
Released to mark founder Michel Parmigiani's 75th birthday, this one-of-a-kind piece centres on a restored minute-repeater movement from the 1920s, brought back to life through the maison's restoration expertise. The case and chain are entirely handmade in 18-carat white gold, with alternating oval and hexagonal links inspired by natural forms, one of them engraved with the Parmigiani Fleurier logo. It's as much a sculptural object as it is a functioning timepiece. The official price is strictly available upon request.
Prices and availability are subject to change. For the latest information, please visit the official websites of the respective watch brands.