When it comes to ultra-luxury watches, diamonds and precious gemstones can transform a timepiece into something far more interesting than a simple device to tell what part of the day it is. And that is exactly what has been brought to light at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) 2026 awards. We reveal here the 5 best Gemset watches nominated at GPHG 2026 from the Bovet 1822 Recital 23, Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna, Chopard L'Heure du Diamant, Franck Muller Round Triple Mystery Skeleton, all the way to Tiffany & Co. Paradise Bird Toucan. These watches demonstrate just how creatively maisons are using these pricey materials, from Bvlgari's diamond-set serpent to Tiffany & Co.'s sculptural toucan. These designs bring together jewellery craftsmanship and watchmaking at the highest level.
Bovet's Recital 23 stands out with its signature inclined Writing Slope case, crafted in red gold and decorated with diamonds. A vibrant green guilloché dial adds contrast, while the three-dimensional moon-phase display brings an astronomical touch to the design. The watch also features an automatic movement with a 62-hour power reserve, making it as interesting mechanically as it is visually.
Bvlgari gives its iconic serpent motif a sculptural makeover with the Serpenti Aeterna. Crafted in white gold, this jewellery watch features 428 diamonds and 263 emeralds, with additional diamonds decorating the dial. Its fluid bangle construction wraps around the wrist like a serpent, making it one of the most striking interpretations of the maison's signature design.
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Chopard's L'Heure du Diamant takes a more classic approach to gemset watchmaking. The 33mm white gold timepiece features a fluted gold dial framed by a bezel set with pear-shaped diamonds. The integrated bracelet continues the fluted detailing, creating a seamless transition from the case to the wrist. Inside, the self-winding movement offers a 42-hour power reserve.
Franck Muller brings an unconventional time display to the Gemset category with the Round Triple Mystery Skeleton. Instead of traditional hands, three rotating discs indicate the hours, minutes and seconds. Its 36mm rose gold case is set with diamonds, while the skeletonised construction reveals the mechanical elements beneath. It is an interesting combination of jewellery craftsmanship and technical watchmaking.
Tiffany & Co.'s Paradise Bird Toucan is perhaps the most artistic creation on this list. Inspired by Jean Schlumberger's celebrated bird designs, the watch features a sculpted yellow gold toucan decorated with colourful gemstones. A 2.5-carat chalcedony cabochon, hand-painted enamel foliage and a white gold case set with 425 diamonds complete the design. Limited to just 10 pieces, it is closer to a miniature work of art than a conventional wristwatch.
From Bvlgari’s sculptural Serpenti to Tiffany & Co.’s intricate toucan, each of these five watches brings something different to the Gemset category. Whether it is unconventional time displays, intricate gem-setting or imaginative design, the competition is certainly an interesting one. Which creation will take home the prize? We’ll find out when the winners are announced at the GPHG ceremony in Geneva on November 7, 2026.