Swati & Sunaina Gold have transformed expectations around Banarasi sarees by pairing revivalist design with rigorous documentation and certified zari purity. Their work traces Oriental, Mughal and French influences, recasting Rococo florals and Baroque motifs into konias and pallus, while insisting on limited output, deep research and a custodial approach to Varanasi’s rarest handwoven textiles.
Walk into any Banarasi saree store, and the one thing you will be told is that it is pure zari. Ask for proof, and the conversation (quite often) ends there. That is the kind of problem Swati & Sunaina set out to solve a decade ago, and the way they solved it changed what informed textile buyers in this country now expect from a purchase.
Since 2015, Swati & Sunaina Gold has returned to revival and re-imagination in Varanasi's brocades. From French-style shikargah jaal and Rococo flowers cast as konias to their latest work, every saree leaves with a certificate recording the design inspiration, weaving technique, weaver's name, zari purity and quantity, days to weave, and the full production timeline. The zari is certified at 98.5 per cent silver, electroplated in 24-carat gold — a standard of transparency that, at launch, drew more resistance from the industry than from buyers.
A decade of research into Banarasi textiles' historical influences has produced three landmark collections: Gyaser, examining Oriental influences; Aab-e-Zae, drawing from Mughal design; and an Indo-French collection shown at the Galerie des Gobelins in Paris under Christian Louboutin's artistic direction, where a Varanasi-woven lehenga was placed alongside an original textile from Versailles. In 2025, the brand moved beyond the saree into collectable objects under Motif and Meaning, with a publication on Gyaser forthcoming.
Robb Report India spoke to the duo about the craft, the certifications, the French lace problem, and why they will always be custodians before they are designers.
Swati & Sunaina: Gold will always be a passion project; the brand a natural by-product of focused work and continued patronage. Integrity and authenticity have been at the core from the start — whether through certificates of authenticity, fully documented textiles, or working closely with weavers to uphold craftsmanship while innovating. Marrying passion with commitment is the balance we have tried to strike from the day the brand was born.
S&S: The idea of authentication was born from watching buyers lose faith in Banarasi sarees due to spurious products and substandard zari. Certifying 98.5 per cent silver zari electroplated in 24-carat gold was unheard of then, meeting more resistance within the industry than among buyers. Once clients discovered our authenticity certification, they began expecting the same transparency from other vendors — something many could not provide. Every Swati & Sunaina Gold saree comes with a certificate of zari purity and full provenance documentation: Design inspiration, weaving technique, weaver's name, zari purity and quantity, days taken to weave, and the complete production timeline. Today, our sarees are among the only contemporary documented Indian textiles from Varanasi.
S&S: We consciously resist market pressures by limiting our output and prioritising quality, craftsmanship, and rarity over speed or scale. It is a conscious choice, one that may be unconventional and commercially challenging to sustain, but essential to preserving the integrity of what we create. Over time, our commitment to quality over quantity has been deeply valued by our patrons.
S&S: Since 2019, we have been studying the influence of foreign cultures on Indian textiles, with Varanasi becoming the most relevant because its weavers have historically been far more open to adaptation than many other textile centres. We explored Oriental influences through Gyaser and Mughal influences through Aab-e-Zae. Exploring European influences felt like a natural progression. As we began studying French textiles in greater depth, we discovered fascinating similarities in motifs, craftsmanship, and design sensibilities. The deeper we delved, the more compelling the parallels became, and that is when we knew this had to become a collection.
S&S: It was a very conscious exercise at the design table. Konias and paisleys are deeply intrinsic to Indian textile traditions, while Rococo florals and Baroque bouquets are rooted in French design sensibilities. The challenge, and equally the most satisfying aspect of the collection, was to create a seamless dialogue between the two while ensuring both textile cultures retained their distinct identity. Throughout the collection, both sensibilities have been balanced with great precision and care.
S&S: Phase one of the collection was to showcase French designs coupled with Indian weaving expertise. Phase two was to create an Indian garment using a textile unique to France. Laces were a natural choice. The first challenge was the length and width. France produces laces in different widths and lengths that simply did not fit the dimensions required for a saree. We had to weave a very special fabric to integrate the laces into the design. To get a perfect fall while draping, we used velvet borders, and eventually arrived at a perfect saree made out of lace.
S&S: We presented two artworks woven using the most complex weaves of Rangkaat and Jamdani in a non-repeat pattern, a display of the mastery our weavers have over their craft. A very special lehenga set was also on display, showcasing real zari in a pattern inspired by France, placed alongside an original textile from the Palace of Versailles to show the old and the new together. Taking our country to France and showcasing our craft in that space felt like achieving an important milestone.
S&S: Always custodians and seekers of knowledge. Our prime goal is to leave behind fully documented pieces of Indian craftsmanship as a legacy for those who will seek after we have hung up our boots. We are living in times of diminishing skill sets. The focus is always on encouraging weavers to give the best that they have to offer while they still can.
S&S: A lot of weaves are not viable within the expanse of a saree, and to be able to realise those weaves, we stepped into textile art. It allows us to create non-repeating patterns using complex weaves and allows for greater storytelling. The sarees will always remain a staple of the brand. But the artworks make the textile accessible and relevant to those who do not wear sarees. That opens an entirely new conversation.