On National Handloom Day, leading Indian designers argue that handloom and handspun textiles now define modern luxury. They highlight how these crafts sustain rural communities, embody sustainability and ethical production, and offer rarity, human touch and cultural memory. By reinterpreting indigenous weaves in contemporary silhouettes, they see handloom as the future for conscious, globally aware consumers.
Handloom and handspun textiles have time and again rooted for intercultural aesthetics and inculcated diversity with craftsmanship and artistic reverence. Not many know that handloom majorly sustains rural and semi-urban settlements and clusters in India. With conversation around sustainability and ethical production practices in fashion impacting the new-age luxury, handloom stands at the forefront of this movement, advocating authenticity while being eco-conscious.
Embodying the spirit of India Modern, our India Proud designers have experimented with indigenous textiles while respecting craft and preserving Indian heritage that evokes a sense of nostalgia. On National Handloom Day today, we speak to four designers who have championed handloom through their work. They share why they believe handloom is the next big movement for this generation of conscious consumers.
Known for her inventive extrapolation of weaves and crafts, designer Vaishali S's approach has always been to respect the integrity of the weave while challenging the way it is perceived and worn.
There is a growing understanding that luxury is no longer only about a famous label or a high price tag. Increasingly, people want to know who made something, how it was made, where it came from, and what makes it unique. "That is where handloom and hand-spun textiles have an incredible advantage. Every piece carries time, human skill and individuality. Unlike mass-produced textiles, there is a sense of authenticity and rarity in a handwoven piece. I also think the younger generation is changing the perception of handloom. They don’t want to wear heritage simply because it is heritage, they want to understand it, reinterpret it, and make it part of their own identity. When we give handloom contemporary design, exceptional finishing and a luxury context, people begin to see it not as an obligation to preserve tradition, but as something they want to own, collect and pass on. Ultimately, investing in handloom is an investment in craft, culture, people and the future of Indian creativity. And I believe that is the direction in which true luxury is moving," she adds.
The conversation around handloom has evolved from seeing it simply as a traditional textile to understanding it as something that can be deeply relevant to contemporary wardrobes. For designers like Mayyur Girotra, it is about respecting the soul and history of the textile while giving it a new context. With his parallel label The Collectables, Mayyur works extensively with handloom, hand-woven, vintage, and newly developed textiles, much of which comes from the rural parts and villages of India. "Sometimes we are discovering and collecting old textiles, restoring them and giving them a new life, at other times, we are working with artisans and weaving communities to create something new. The common thread is that every textile carries a story, a skill and a sense of place," says Mayyur. The designer doesn’t believe in designing pieces that are relevant only for one season. Girotra creates garments that can be styled, worn and re-worn in different ways and eventually become part of someone’s personal history. "A beautiful textile should not be something that disappears into the back of a wardrobe after one occasion. It should become a jewel of your wardrobe… something you treasure, wear differently over the years and hopefully pass on to the next generation," he quips.
Designer Shruti Sancheti observes that India has such a rich textile and craft heritage, but what worked 100 years ago cannot remain the same today. “Today’s consumer is global, urban, and well exposed. Handmade is a luxury that people really value, but it has to fit into their current lifestyle. Our weavers already know their craft is beautiful; we don’t need to change that. What needs design intervention is the colours, motifs, silhouettes, and the overall presentation, so that the product feels relevant to today’s consumer while still staying true to its roots. That’s how people appreciate sustainability and actually find a place for these products in their wardrobe,” says Shruti, who’s been experimenting with weaves and heritage craft techniques.
Stuti Dhanuka, Founder of Terra Luna, brings handwoven khadi into contemporary silhouettes, relaxed tailoring, modern colour palettes and globally relevant styling, so it feels natural in today’s wardrobe rather than confined to traditional or occasion wear. "We also focus on the qualities that make the fabric desirable in its own right: its texture, breathability, individuality and the subtle variations that come from being made by hand. For us, making handloom contemporary isn’t about changing the craft; it’s about allowing its inherent beauty to speak through modern design," says Stuti.
There is a growing appreciation for knowing what one's investing in. Consumers are beginning to understand that when one buys handloom, one's not simply buying a garment, one's investing in time, skill, craftsmanship, and a piece of India’s living textile heritage. "There is also something inherently luxurious about owning something that hasn’t been made identically thousands of times. The subtle irregularities, the human touch and the story behind the fabric give it a character that mass-produced clothing cannot replicate. I think luxury is increasingly moving away from just being about rarity or a price tag; it’s about authenticity, craftsmanship and knowing that something was made with intention," she adds.