Leonardo da Vinci once famously commented, “Painting is poetry that is seen rather than felt, and poetry is painting that is felt rather than seen.” And looking at Mysore paintings, you can feel the exact thoughts behind these words. Mysore paintings, which have an official Geographical Indication (GI) tag, have traditionally found patronage and encouragement from the erstwhile Vijayanagara empire. The Mysore style of painting is unique to the old Mysore kingdom and originated in the 18th century as a successor to the Vijayanagara style. The process of making this art is also interesting. It starts when an artist makes a drawing either freehand or from a template. Ornaments and other parts that will later be covered with gold foil are first painted yellow. Low-relief gesso is applied for ornaments, and base colours are applied. Detailing, like outlines and shading, is then done. Gold foil is pasted on required parts, and final detailing is done along with background colours and contouring. The result is a stunning piece of artwork that is as beautiful as it is meticulously created.
The museum is a brainchild of R.G. Singh, Partner, Ramsons Kala Pratishtana, a not-for-profit art foundation based in Mysore. Housed in a three-storey space, there are about 300 paintings on display. I meet with H.S. Dharmendra (Raghu) and R.G. Singh, who take me on an exclusive tour of the art-filled space. My first impression of the museum feels much like a sensory overdrive of colour, art, and craft. All the walls are fitted with fine paintings largely dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses. Interestingly, Singh bought his first Mysore painting in 1987 from a frame maker’s shop with the money his mother had given him to buy clothes for his birthday. He, however, chose to buy the painting that probably dates to 1880-1900. “The original owner had replaced the painting in the old frame with the family photograph and discarded the painting at the store. I couldn't resist taking it home. The brittle board smelt dusty, which gave me a sneezing attack, but I got it back home between two hardwood sheets and delicately balanced it on my chetak scooter. "The painting, sans the frame, sat on my desk for almost a month before I found an old teakwood frame, almost matching its size,” reminisces Singh.
While there are several paintings of gods and goddesses, which is the typical subject of the art form, there are several other works, including one of the Mausoleum of Tipu Sultan. Jain subjects are also depicted in some of the paintings here. Do not miss the rare Mysore-style painting done on glass. There is also a painting that shows the Dasara procession by King
Mummadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar, who ruled Mysore between 1831 and 1868. Interestingly, this period is also known as the golden period for arts in Mysore, as this king was a patron of the arts. The collection was built by Singh when he started sourcing paintings from old homes initially and then started buying from authorised antique dealers to ensure authenticity of the source. Most of the paintings have been sourced across South India and especially in Ram Mandiras, which are community halls that celebrate music during Ramanavami. These were specific to the communities (weavers, boatmen, merchants, traders, and soldiers) that built them. Interestingly, each of these Ram Mandiras has its own style of painting.
Interestingly, Singh buys at least one painting a month and has a collection of over 450 works. On the guided tour, I am explained how the art is completely nuanced. For instance, some artists have used both gold and silver together. “Also, if you see several pictures that we have displayed here are mirror images. Perhaps they were placed on either side of the entrance of a home, as Indians are obsessed with symmetry. Another aspect we have observed is that some of these paintings could have been commissioned by wealthy patrons, as there is real gold work in them. Some others have silver foil, and a few are just artwork,” says Raghu.
A set of Ganjifa cards has also been framed in one of the works. I am told that while this is not the whole set, as it has been sourced from several places, it was framed to showcase the finesse of the art. An artist sketchbook on display shows how the art was conceived before it was painted. Some samples of paintings that are currently seen on the ceiling of the Mysore palace done by court artists are also on display. A pencil sketch of a Mysore painting is another must-see when you are here. The team also works on restoring damaged Mysore paintings. Singh explains, "This is one task that is very hard, and we are approached by people who know of us. Since it is a learning experience for us as well, we do not charge for the process. However, we give a disclaimer before we start the work, as some paintings are in very bad shape.” Singh hopes to move the museum to a larger facility where more paintings can be displayed. Bookmark this gem of a place when you are in Mysore next. It will bring you up close with the grandeur of the royal city under an arty lens whose nuances you never knew existed.
Address: 285, Zoo Main Road, Mysuru, Karnataka 570010
Visits by appointment only: Tues-Sun, 10.00 am - 11.30 am or 7.00 pm - 8.30 pm. Call +91 98801-1162.