Some of our readers may remember that long before Chinese fine dining became popular in India, there was Golden Dragon. Established at The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, in 1973, the restaurant introduced Indian diners to genuine Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines at a time when Chinese food largely meant the familiar comforts of Indo-Chinese fare. More than five decades later, the brand continues to hold its stature as one of the country’s most loved dining institutions, and its newest address at Taj Surajkund Resort & Spa makes us wonder why it took so long for it to open in Delhi-NCR.
Golden Dragon’s story would be incomplete without mentioning Camellia Panjabi, one of India’s great culinary visionaries. After travelling through Hong Kong and discovering the depth of regional Chinese cuisine, particularly Sichuan food, she encouraged Taj Hotels to create a more authentic Chinese dining experience in India. Chefs were brought in from Hong Kong’s Red Pepper restaurant, and Golden Dragon was born. Panjabi later helped shape other iconic Taj restaurants, including House of Ming in Delhi, while also introducing Indian regional cuisine to the UK through Bombay Brasserie in London in 1982.
Today, the Surajkund outpost of Golden Dragon carries that legacy forward through time-honoured techniques and trusted recipes. The kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Anuj Mathur alongside Chef Tong Sing Wah from Hong Kong, and the emphasis remains firmly on balance, clarity of flavour, and culinary precision.
“Drawing inspiration from the vibrant landscape of Surajkund and its proximity to South Delhi’s dynamic residential and corporate hubs, Golden Dragon brings with it a timeless culinary legacy that has defined IHCL’s Chinese cuisine for decades. With this launch, we not only elevate our gastronomic offerings but also create yet another compelling reason for guests to return, experience, and celebrate with us,” says Ramneet Singh, hotel manager, Taj Surajkund.
Even before we arrive at the restaurant, Taj Surajkund itself deserves a moment of appreciation. The property has undergone a thoughtful refresh — there are beautiful light installations, contemporary accents, and a polished lounge space that transforms into a wine bar by evening.
As we enter Golden Dragon through a softly lit corridor running along the courtyard, the restaurant looks beautiful and welcoming, striking a careful balance between nostalgia and modernity. Classical Oriental design cues, gold and green accents, textured walls, and delicate plum blossom motifs lend warmth without veering into excess. The gold leaf ceiling adds a touch of old-world Oriental glamour, while cosy corners and intimate seating arrangements make the space equally suited for date nights and family celebrations. Thoughtfully designed private dining rooms elevate the experience further, offering discreet spaces for milestone dinners and corporate entertaining.
Several dishes on the menu come straight from Golden Dragon’s legacy repertoire, while a few newer additions add freshness for the present. We start with the Imperial Crabmeat Soup that is silky, comforting, and exactly the kind of dish that reminds you why classics survive. Then comes a parade of dim sum: Prawn Har Gao, Lamb, Chilli and Coriander Gyoza, and Water-Poached Chicken Dumpling with Spicy Garlic Sauce.
The flaky dumplings have been on the menu since the restaurant’s inception. Try the Flaky Radish Dumpling, a crisp and scaly pastry that gives way to a savoury interior, before moving on to the Flaky Crab Claw Dumpling — a must-have for seafood lovers. The Beijing Onion Cake, meanwhile, is a puff baked to a crisp deliciousness. Crunchy Water Chestnut with Roasted Macadamia Chilli Sauce is a tasty and well-thought-out addition, while the Stir-Fried Mushroom Pepper and Salt combines enoki, shiitake, and button mushrooms in a textured medley.
The Crispy Lotus Root with Honey Chilli suffers slightly from an overenthusiastic hand with the sauce that also dulls its crispiness. But the kitchen quickly redeems itself with Scallops with Soy, Chilli, and Ginger, where the savoury-umami sauce complements the sweetness of the scallops beautifully. Then comes Song of the Dragon-Chicken — bite-sized fried chicken tossed with dried chillies and Sichuan pepper that leaves a gentle tingle lingering on the tongue. The Golden Fried Prawns live up to their name: Crisp, golden shells giving way to juicy prawns within.
Among the mains, the Wok-Fried Sliced Lamb with Ginger, Onion, and Soya impresses with its tenderness, while the Kung Pao Chicken with Cashew Nut and Dry Red Chilli earns points for leaning into fiery Sichuan notes rather than the sweeter versions many restaurants favour. The Mala Tofu, buzzing pleasantly with Sichuan pepper, and the smoky, garlicky Dry Cooked Green Beans are perfect add-ons.
One of the standouts of the evening is the Steamed Sea Bass, Sizzled with Ginger, Chilli, Spring Onion, and Soya. Perfectly cooked and deeply savoury, it embodies the restrained elegance that defines good Cantonese cooking. It pairs beautifully with the Vegetable Sticky Rice. The Beijing Duck arrives with all the drama one expects. Thin slices are artistically plated alongside pancakes, julienned cucumber, scallions, and sweet bean sauce, but not before a tableside carving and a brief burst of fire theatrics.
As for Golden Dragon’s Famous Three Flavors Noodle, the signature dish feels surprisingly subdued, perhaps too restrained for its own good. So, it leaves us curious enough to return for the Curry Oil Flavored Singapore Rice Noodles, which sounds exactly like the kind of comforting bowl one craves on a weekday evening.
Golden Dragon’s signature cocktails complement the restaurant’s East-meets-modern identity. The Oriental Kick, gin infused with Sichuan pepper, hibiscus, honey, lemon, and ginger, is particularly enjoyable, while the Jasmine Tea & Apple Martini balances floral notes with crisp freshness. For something moodier, the Golden Dragon Ember combines whisky, Aperol, and five-spice syrup into a warming, aromatic drink. The Sesame Pearl Dessert Martini, complete with a sesame rim and chocolate cigar, is perfect to end the satiating meal.
RR Verdict
With its easy accessibility from South Delhi, polished yet welcoming ambience, and menu rooted in authenticity and legacy rather than trend-chasing, Golden Dragon has all the makings of becoming NCR’s next go-to address for refined Chinese dining. More importantly, it reminds diners why the original became legendary in the first place.